Rob,
The upper Velorex clevis bolts have approx. 10" of shaft length.
The factory recommends that about 2 inches of the threads remain in the strut tube for rigidity. The strut tube isn't threaded for the whole 2 inches so there is some leeway. At least all of the threaded part of the strut tube should be engaged. Be careful not to overtighten the jam nut. It is possible to strip the threads so just make them nice and snug.
For small toe-in tweaking just move the lower front mount sliding sleeve in or out a turn or so. In toward the bike will also increase lean-out as it increases toe-in, Pushing the rig to the left.
For major changes all fittings should be adjusted so there is no torsional stress on the mountings, just push and pull, tension and compression forces.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecar
Originally written by Hack'n on 4/14/2006 1:42 PM
Rob,
The upper Velorex clevis bolts have approx. 10" of shaft length.
The factory recommends that about 2 inches of the threads remain in the strut tube for rigidity. The strut tube isn't threaded for the whole 2 inches so there is some leeway. At least all of the threaded part of the strut tube should be engaged. Be careful not to overtighten the jam nut. It is possible to strip the threads so just make them nice and snug.For small toe-in tweaking just move the lower front mount sliding sleeve in or out a turn or so. In toward the bike will also increase lean-out as it increases toe-in, Pushing the rig to the left.
For major changes all fittings should be adjusted so there is no torsional stress on the mountings, just push and pull, tension and compression forces.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecar
Perfect, just what I was looking for. Good instruction...
I know that this is not, as others have said, Rocket Science, I just wanted a sanity check over a couple of points in adjustments before I do them.
Thanks Lonnie,
Rob
Also, are you saying that if it needs more toe in I will wear tires out quicker...? How do I know which needs moving after a test ride...? Meaning, if something does not feel right, how would a novice know what to move...? Toe in or Lean...?
I start with what has worked on my rig. I like to keep my toe in to a minimum, to prevent tire wear. The more outward lean, the more the chair feels like it will lift of RH corners. The end result is a compromise.
I tend to adjust toe in first, to 1/2", and then go on the road and adjust outward lean. I have a leading link front end, so if there is pressure on the bars, it's minimal. I can ride long miles with no shoulder pain or stiffness once I have it dialed in right.
Last time I set mine up, I had 1/2" toe in and a little under 1 degree lean. This spring I set it at 1.25 degree, and I'm still deciding on how I like it. I'm trying to reduce some strange rear tire wear, which has been on the hack side of my drive tire - a strange phenomena to my thinking.
I use a square to measure off the rim of the rear wheel and the rim of the hack. I hold the square on a good, level cement floor, and use a tape measure to measure between the vertical of the square and the rim. I mark those locations in the floor and set the straight edge on those marks to check my toe in.
