Rigid or flexable mounting
I am gathering information to build a sidecar frame and am puzzled as to which type of frame would be best. Rigid or flexable mounting. I have looked at many designs at "Freepatentsonline"as a start and one connects to the cycle center line underside frame(beneath engine) with a long pivot which allows cycle to lean while car stays flat. The question is rigid or flex between cycle and car. Does anyone have experience with both types. The bike is a R60/2 BMW. Thanks
I have both, and a R60/2 but I'm leaving in 5 min. for the USCA national will have to get back to U in a few weeks.
I just joined and wanted to bump this thread as I am interested in a similar subject... 🙂
There is a site called Flexit sidecar club. it may help you some.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/flexitsidecarclub/?yguid=241028064
I've done both and by far I recomend the articulated design. Purchased a '97 Ural Tourist a couple of years ago so I could take my dog Taylor riding, (100 lb Shepherd). Did two 100 mile plus trips and after getting home thought they were about 90 miles too long.
Started looking into articulated sidecar design and felt I could do this myself. Modified the Ural frame by lowering it about 7 inches and attached Hiem joint type rod ends. Fabricated mounts that bolt to a '99 Victory V92C 1507cc motorcycle. Bike leans nicely through the curves now and of course the bigger bike is much more comfortable than the Ural 650cc. A 250 mile day is no problem now. And Taylor is quite the Babe Magnet which can't be bad. Also, it takes me all of about 3 minutes to to remove the sidecar and be back on two wheels again.
Roy
Could you share a little more detail with the design?
Currently I have Velorex 562 rigidly mounted on BSA A65T.
Although the rig has a character and fun to drive, it's not suitable for long trips and freeways.
I have Honda CB750K and Yamaha XS750. They are relatively old bikes with cradle type frames. I once mounted the Velorex on CB750K but didn't like too slow right turns.
It's been my dream to build articulated rig.
Chris,
Your BMW comes with mounts for a rigid sidecar. Also your bike does not have very much ground clearance. Considering the mounting points already in place and the lack of room for the swing mount your best bet for this bike is a rigid sidecar like a Ural. It is simple bolt up install and a classic design that was built to go with your bike. If you decide to reinvent the wheel with a swing type mount, pick a bike with more ground clearance. Either way, Good Luck!
If you want to go with a rigid mount sidecar: URAL,Dnepr or Chang Jiang chassis will bolt right on to your /2 BMW mounts without needing any other extra sub-frames or mounting bits. And you end up with a proven combo.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecar
For the articulated set-up I tried to copy some of the other designs I've run across on the net. Had a lot of nay-sayer when I first started considering this system. Seems they were all against it yet had no personal experience. Just thought it through and then started fabricating. The Ural frame sits much higher than the Victory frame so I cut the swingarm pivot mounts off the underside of the frame. Welded two spacers to the top side of frame and then rewelded pivot mounts to the spacers. Then cut the shock/fender mounts from the frame and added similar spacers to them. This dropped the frame by about 7 inches, about the same as the Vic's.
I cut the tub's mounts and moved them as far outboard as possible so tub is just clearing the shock absorber. This essentially allows the wheel to be closer in to the bike yet allow the sidecar clearance from the swinging bike. I wanted to keep the moment arm as close to the bike as possible.
The front frame mounting socket was cut off and replaced with a Rod End.
The rear frame mounting socket was modified to accept a similar Rod End.
The original rear frame mounting socket is offset and rotates which will allow you some adjustment to the distance between the two mounting Rod Ends.
At this stage two mounting points are needed on the bikes frame. I used the front floorboard mounting bolt holes to attach a cross frame just ahead of the engine. A hole in the center of this cross frame provides the front Rod End a bolt hole.
For the rear I fabricated a mount that bolts to the frame and engine "wishbone" that sits just head of the rear wheel. This mount consists of heavy flatstock hanging down between the rear tire and back side of transmission. A hole near the bottom of this vertical hanging flatstock provides the bolt hole for the rear Rod End.
Had to do some "adjusting" to the exhaust system to provide frame clearance on tight right hand turns. Also had to move the oil cooler a couple of inches higher for right hand clearance. Granted I can not get too aggressive on a righthand turn before running out of lean angle as exhaust system contacts attachment arms. But with a bit of body "English" normal speed limit curves are not a problem.
This was the basic modifications. Actual measurments would be different for any other bike / sidecar combination. I am still tweeking and adjusting things. The drag of the sidecar does pull the bike's lower frame to the right causing a slight but constant left hand lean, worse going up hill. I must keep slight pressure on the right grip in order to go straight. Decelerating or traveling down hill produces a slight right hand turn. I believe a "neutral" cruise characteristic can be found by experimenting with exact mounting point placement position, toe-in and camber etc.
But or a first time, out of the box situation riding characteristic it is still far ahead of the old Ural.
Roy
Thanks for the info.
I looked at my XS750 frame yesterday.
I was hoping that I can just use universal mounting clamps came with the Velorex on the frame but exhaust pipes are really in a way.
As you say, every bike is different and I need to come up with a solution for mine. I don't even have a welding skill or equipment. But it's encouraging to know that some people did it successfully.
that's great! just what I had in mind!
so I've gathered so far for a leaner:
mounts need to be centered to bike
forward mount might be best higher than rear to create turning in the car wheel
clearance for exhaust
so I have wondered if the weight of the car is as crucial in the articulated rig? since you don't need it to hold the car down in a turn, maybe as long as it's shock is paired correctly, you could get away with a lighter car(or frame in my case)??
I also considered adding a free standing brace that would catch the bike if it did happen to fall too far into the car, as opposed to pinching legs or torqueing mounts, etc.
and I figure I'd try it with adjustable fix points, multiple holes in the front like you have (or is that the back?) and adjustable length heim joint rods...
Originally written by snowbeard on 7/30/2007 2:37 PM
so I have wondered if the weight of the car is as crucial in the articulated rig? since you don't need it to hold the car down in a turn, maybe as long as it's shock is paired correctly, you could get away with a lighter car(or frame in my case)??
That's my understanding also. The lighter the better.
For my XS750, I think I can use engine mount bolts for the front, and center stand mounting brackets for the rear.
Now, I just need to find a local welder who is good/kind/won't rip me off.
Sorry it took so long to reply, check this out, then ask what's more fun, ridgid or leaner.
I guess like beauty, it's in the eye of the beholder. Nice setup that rides like a solo but you have room for a passenger on the side for a hefty price. Can't really compare it funwise with a budget priced rigid hack outfit.
What's more fun? An apple or an orange? A Hayabusa or a Harley?
No need to learn a new (fun) discipline, you ride it like a solo.
Is leaning the only fun part of motorcycling?
Not for this old fart, It's all fun,
Lonnie
To me, it's not just leaning but faster right turns.
If the rigid rig can turn right at least as fast as ordinary passenger cars and if I don't have to worry about the rig tipping over in fast left handers, then I am fine with a rigid rig.
Actually I love driving a rigid rig. I will miss it if I convert my Velorex to articulated.
Sadly my BSA/Velorex rig doesn't have enough power and I am constantly tail-gated by ordinary passenger cars in the twisties. It is a complete reversal compared to my solo ride.
There was a thread discussing how fast a sidecar rig can turn.
If you hook up heavy sidecar to powerful motorcycle, can you turn as fast as ordinary cage drivers? My passenger is a 3-year old kid so I cannot expect him to perform acrobatics.
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