Not that I plan to do it right away, I was wondering how big of a deal it is to remove the TLE from my 05 RK? I have the parking brake and what do I do with the brake line for the sidecar?
Also when I went to re-attach the TLE would I need to reset the caster/camber?
TIA,
John
If properly installed you should have a quick disconnect fitting on any accessory brake.
If so, bleeding is still recommended when reconnecting the brake line.
If no changes have been made other than unbolting the sidecar, no adjustments will be needed after remounting.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars
Where would I look for these quick disconnects? The car was dealer installed so I hope that they installed them.
Thanks,
john
Follow the brake line from the rear wheel brake forward or ask the dealer who installed it.
Lonnie
when removine the upper brace that controls the lean in and out be carefull it tends to run close to the lower training edge of the front fender use a foam blanket to protect area, when unbolting the upper frame bracket do it from the frame as the lean in'/out bracket will be severely attached to the frame bracket
unlike what others have said & having had several hd - hd setups
there are NO, NONE quick connects for anything - to remove the sidecar - take off both saddle bags, take off the seat, take off the right side cover. then disconnect the rear hydraulic brake line - remove the sidecar parking brake handle from the sidecar and bungee somewhere safe for the moment. then disconnect all the wires - non ultra its just one - ultra its several - on some years the sidecar wire plugs go inbetween the bike ones - sooo.. you have to unplug the sidecar harness and then plug the bike lines back together - put a bulb in the right rear signal [take it out again when the sidecar goes on or the tssm goes berserk] then take all the hard mounts and the stabilizer apart and slide the sidecar away. then remove the sidecar parking brake caliper and cable etc and set asside [its a [*&%$$%$$%^^ to put back on and adjust but it comes off with a few bolts] leave the parking brake bracket alone - or you will regret trying to get it off.
in the kit of parts for the sidecar when it was new was included a plug for the rear brake line - install it and bleed the rear brake. put a cover over the sidecar brake line.
when you reinstall the toe in will be fine - lean out will be wrong - you will have to readjust it - a small drop of nail polish on the front brace just before taking the bolts loose under the body will help.
the manual says "easy removal and installation" ive done this sidecar 4 times on two bikes for various right side service issues - takes me about 2 hours to get it all off if im really in a big hurry and basically takes most of a day to get it back on, wired, aligned, and bled. the manual is full of crap - its a hassle.
i just gave up totally on the "ever ride it solo" idea, put on a raked tree and car rear tire and im totally happy with it.
to
Thanks for all the info, after hearing that the car will stay on. My other bike is a GL1800 so I have really no use for the RK othern than with the rig.
Just figured that I would ask just so I know.
John
There is also a different rear brake resevoir that was (or should have been) installed up between the down tubes. Also a different clutch cable. If you have a different tripple tree, such as the 5 degree after market one from Washington, DO NOT DRIVE WITH THIS TREE ON, go back to the original tree.
Stock tree, yes on the upgraded clutch and brake resiviour..
I looked for a quick disconnect for my rear brake line and the only one I found was $100 so I quickly forgot it. As mentioned above, they don't provide one with the sidecar so unless you change things around you'll be required to at least bleed the rear caliper. A Mity-Vac unit makes this much more positive.
As mentioned above, it's about a two hour deal each way to R&R the sidecar and re-check the lean angle and toe-in. I wouldn't take a chance on not checking it again.
I handled the rear brake issue differently. I added a 12" brake line extension with a coupler (3/16" line) that stands the brake line nearly straight up where it connects to the sidecar. That way, when removing the sidecar, a slight push on the rear brake will clear any air while you install a cap. When re-connecting, you will still have to re-bleed the sidecar brake line but it makes it a bit easier when taking the unit off. You should also cap the sidecar brake line to keep out foreign material while it is off the bike.
Here's a picture.
