I have been riding my Dnepr sidecar rig(s) for several years, and loved them, but I realize I need something that can go over 45mph AND give me a feeling of reliability. So, I have a 1984 Kawasaki KZ1000P police bike, and just picked up a Motorvation Spyder. Will they make a good match? What are the best mounting locations on a KZ? The clamps that came with the sidecar are pictured at the URL below. Any tips or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance. Hal in CT
http://halkct.myphotoalbum.com/albums.php
Hal,
My Spyder is hooked to a Harley Ultra. Although slightly light for an Ultra it is stable and safe at any speed the Harley will push it. With triple discs I have had no need of a hack brake. I had to use a subframe built by Motorvation to attach the Spyder but I think you can get to all the frame position on your Kawasaki without a subframe.
Lay out all the mounts and knuckles and get a feel for the options they provide. It's going to look like a Chinese puzzle. When you mount it first loosely have a friend help so that he can manipulate the sidecar while you tighten everything down.
I started with the track of the sidecar very wide. (It truned like a truck.) Then shortened the track until it felt stable and turned well. There is no magic number for the track. Beware!!! If you want the track in close to the bike, do not pound the male slider into the female slider. Do not push the male slider in past the tension cut on the female slider. It will bottom and bind and you will have a hell of a time pulling it out. I had to CUT 5 1/2" off the inside of the male slider to get the rig in as close as I wanted it.
Because you have had a sidecar before I assume you know about track, toe-in, leanout, etc. The mounting system on the Spyder allows a zillion adjustment. In fact all the measurement specifications are plus or minus a foot. I suggest track first, then toe-in, then leanout. I mounted the rig, made an adjustment, went around the block, made another adjustment, around the block, on and on. The rig seemed very touchy on the leanout, I could feel a big difference with a weight ballast change.
It's a good rid and should be a good choice for your Kawa.
The Brooklands screen is useless, I am making my own windshield. The extra gas tank they offer is handy and adds ballast. The mounts are strong and have not moved in a year and a half.
The factory is helpful at answering questions.
It's a wellmade medium priced, medium sized piece and worth the price. I would buy another.
Best of luck.
Sam Jones
Hal,
One other thought.
The fender is fiberglass and no matter how it was mounted it flexed and banged around on the tire until I took it off and made a substructure for it.
Hey Sam, did you need a steering damper? did you lower the pressure in your tires? thanks, David
Hal,
THAT should make a nice rig and look great too. You can do it without a subframe although there are advantages to having one that is built right. Either way you want good triangulation and you want the mounts spread apart as well as possible fro stability and to surtail any flexing. With a subframe you would probably be able to better pick and choose where the mounts are placed for optimal strength and easy of adjustment. Either way will work though.
Hal
No I didn't need a steering dampener, but every rig is different. And yes I do run a few pounds of air less in the hack but up to specs on the bike. I noticed from your photos that you have a Hack brake and a real windshield. When you get the rig up and running send me some info on how they work. I've never thought I needed the brake.
Keep in touch.
Sorry, that note was for David AND Hal
I will definitely post pics and thoughts when I get it up and running. I'm looking forward to it! Hal
