And How did I get that three letter post in there??? Anyway I got the brake pads for the car and installed. I have brake pads for the rear of the bike.
Problem #1. The caliper mounting bolts refuse to budge from the aluminum caliper, wheel bearing plate. I need to take the plate off.and rear wheel and apply some extreme measures. It looks to me that to remove the rear wheel that unbolt the caliper plate from the swingarm, unbolt the rear drive put it on the bench and unstack it. Am I missing something here??
Problem #2 It needs new tires all the way around so while I have the rear wheel off I would like to replace that tire. 142SR15. I have found only one source for that tire but it is asian and sold only in pairs.
Problem #3 I can't find the 125SR15s for the other two tires but I can find 135SR15. same source. Is that size difference a problem?
Can someone give me a clue as where to look for these tires. HaroldS
Hi Harold - I nuked the other thread. You could have gone back immediaely and selected delete as soon as you did it. Once others had posted, it's up to an administrator.
Problem #1 - you should get plenty of response here. My approach is to soak it with WD-40 and then wait a day and try it, repeating as needed.
Problems # 2&3 - I have found that wandering in to the local tire shops can yeild some good results. They may not have *that* tire, but they will be able to look at height and width and suggest other tires. If they don't have them, they will tell you where to look.
Thanks for covering for me. I have just been running the net sofar on the tires. I haven't started to terriorize the local tire shops yet. HaroldS
Heat. When dealing with two different metals and one being aluminum, even a propane torch gets it hot enough. When I worked for Jaguar we had a small oil can of brake fluid. We'd heat the metal around the bolt and squirt it with a little brake fluid then let it cool. Heat it a second time, squirt it, and try to unscrew it while it's hot. Be careful not to get the brake fluid on anything with paint on it and try not to inhale too many fumes.
Your mileage may vary.
The Extereme measures I can handle. The Hot wrench, the WD40, the drill press, and the EZOUT. It is the fundamental that I'm not sure about. Is here an eazy way to get the wheel off or does the final drive and all come out as a unit. and then separate the brakes, wheel and final drive.
HaroldS. PS 1985 K100 tug
Harold,
Do you have a single sided rear swing arm or the EML modified double sided rear swing arm?
Yes Al I have the two sided EML rear swingarm. A 1985 K100 tug. The real problem is that I can't get the brake caliper off the aluiminim brake/wheel bearing plate. I need to get to the backside of the plate to apply some heat and chemistry. My plan for now (because I want to check drive spines) is to remove the 2 swingarm to plate bolts, the 4 final drive nuts, take off the brake line and pull the whole thing back and put the whole assembly on the bench.
I guess my question really is----- Is this the way I have to remove the rear wheel every time I have to do tire work? Am I missing some thing here?? If that is the case I will need to have a very good towing insurance and apply for credit at acme rent a truck.
To Steve Thanks for the suggestion. My local tire guy could not find the sizes in any of his catalgues and suggested Coker tire that specializes in odd and antique tires. I ordered two tires for a citroen 2cv. thanks Al and Steve HatoldS
I HAVE PURCHASED THOSE TIRE SIZES FROM COKER, THE ONLY PLACE I COULD FIND THEM. I DO NOT THINK THEY ARE ALWAYS IN STOCK UNFORTUNATLEY. TOM FARLEY
Thanks Tom for the reply and the heads up on Coker Tire. I placed the order online and they sent me a receipt. It didn't say backordered or anything like "don't hold your breath" so we will see. I will also see if I can find this Perry guy HaroldS
Harold,
I just got a reply from a friend who has an EML rig with the same EML rear swing arm. He confirmed my thought that there is a rear axle and all you have to do to get the rear tire off is pull the axle. That should give you access to the rear brakes as well. There is an issue that occurs occassionally where the exhaust doesn't clear the axle to allow a straight removal. If you have that issue, you will have to loosen the exhaust at the header but that's really no big deal either.
This all seems too easy so maybe I'm missing some big item here. If so, I apologize but I don't think you have anywhere near a big a problem as you thought. Good Luck!
Okay Al, It is obvious that there is an axel but not apparent how it it comes apart. You think of a axel going in oneside and coming out the other. This one doesn't come out the right side.. The only way it can be withdrawn is to the left side so the muffler will have to come off. With the knowledge that the wheel comes out without the final drive, I will dive in and just start removing fasteners and see what happens. I'm sure that the Dutch engineers were not trying to baffle a guy that was repairing cars before he could legally drive.
The part that really concerns me is that some of this stuff appears to not have been removed since 1989. That is really the problem with the brake caliper. Wish me luck Harold Short
I know nothing about disassembling a BMW, but on my Valkyrie if I disconnect the lower shock mounts, I can raise the bike and the wheel drops low enough to extract the axle without removing the exhaust. Just a thought.
Harold,
When you start to take things apart, go slow and make notes (and digital photos if possible). When attacking veteran fasteners I use "Kroil", it is much better than WD40 as a penetrating oil.
It has been my experience that the EML engineers weren't being difficult but that they looked for "elegant" solutions. Unfortunately that means that some of the stuff they did doesn't make immediate sense. The good thing is that once you do accomplish something you usually see why they made their decisions.
Go slowly. Don't get frustrated and don't use any more than the minimum force necessary for the job. It is very possible that you will run into some purpose built fasteners that may be hard to replace if you destroy them.
Good Luck.
Yes Al!! Elegant might be the word for both EML and BMW engineering. Thanks for the advice of caution. I will be out of the pocket for the next couple weeks so the rig will just have to wait. will be back later Harold Short
