electric lean
I'm thinking about electric lean for my hd sidecar. do they make it for hd, where can I find it and has any it purchased and used it.
The Harley sidecar has a rigid mounted frame with no suspension. Only the boat is sprung.
Electric lean systems require a swing-arm or torsional suspension.
Lonnie
i have been working on a manual threaded turn buckle stile incert on the upper lean brace, something that will allow a reach down and do in mannual style, with a rachet style wrench and able to sdjust lean a max of 2 inchs each direction, as every road surface seems to have a different crown and any way to make an easier ride is what we want

Would a linear actuator work, as used on the Motorvation cars?
I would think you could find one of the correct length and hook it up to an on/off/on switch
the issue is limits and stability i will look into your idea, thanks
thanks Mike, good site.gonna try to make somthing using one of the actuators.

Here's the wiring diagram I used.
Just make sure you get a momentary on switch, so if you let go it stops.
ed carlson - 11/26/2009 6:36 PM
i have been working on a manual threaded turn buckle stile incert on the upper lean brace, something that will allow a reach down and do in mannual style, with a rachet style wrench and able to sdjust lean a max of 2 inchs each direction, as every road surface seems to have a different crown and any way to make an easier ride is what we want
Don't stop there. Figure out a way to install a small 12 VDC servo or winch to turn your turnbuckle device. That way you could have a toggle switch and two relays, etc. and do the lean on the fly like other machines that come with electric lean.
I wouldn't want to take my hands off of the bars to reach down and change the setting. Also, road conditions can change rather fast when you are traveling.
My present TLE sidecar is very forgiving on off-camber roads and doesn't tend to pull very badly. If I were ever to do any sort of lean device, it would have to be handlebar-controlled so that it could be done quickly and safely.
If I ever do something like that, I will make an entirely new upper brace to replace the original one. I wouldn't want to cut mine up and then later on decide that I didn't like the modification. those things aren't cheap ($372.00 with a discount) . LOL.
My 2 cents.
how about a ratchet binder
Question? Why can't you put the actuator on the bike side of the tug and opertater a rod under the tug to the wheel side and change the mounting point of the shock. So you can move it up and down. Looks easy for a Texas sidecar. Best trosition rod is a socket extention, with lever on actuator side and level with a shock bracket on other side. Just a thought. Rudyr
Lessee,
The bike is the tug so where are you going with this?
Motorvation uses an actuator mounted to the bike side of the sidecar frame for raising and lowering the chassis.
Lonnie
Wouldn't there be a need for a 30 amp relay in that system?, the start up load when switching would cause a heavy amp draw and the switch, unless it was a BIG switch, would most likely burn out in a hurry,,IMHO
Shadow1100T - 12/13/2009 10:08 PM
Wouldn't there be a need for a 30 amp relay in that system?, the start up load when switching would cause a heavy amp draw and the switch, unless it was a BIG switch, would most likely burn out in a hurry,,IMHO
You would certainly need a relay. In fact, whenever you are working with any sort of switched DC, a relay it's always wise to install a relay. It isolates the main circuitrty from the item being operated and prevents the excess current from flowing through a small switch as you say. Relays were the first form of amplification since they use a small current to turn on a larger current. Darn clever stuff. LOL.
I've thought about an electric lean for my Harley/TLE rig but every time I think about it, I just go for a ride instead. This rig is the third one I've owned and apparently all of the tolerances flowed together in some magic combination.
It's smooth steering and seems to be less bothered by changes in road crown than the prior ones. In other words, "if it ain't broke, why fix it". LOL.
If you purchase a rig from some other manufacturer where the electric lean is an option, then by all means, get one. It would be a nice thing to have. On the other hand, it's not something that you necessarily need to engineer since the benefits are slight for the amount of effort necessary. There are too many other things on my list to worry about something that requires that much input.
JMHO. YMMV.

Shadow1100T - 12/14/2009 12:08 AM Wouldn't there be a need for a 30 amp relay in that system?, the start up load when switching would cause a heavy amp draw and the switch, unless it was a BIG switch, would most likely burn out in a hurry,,IMHO
Mine is on a separate battery that I carry for my Bipap, There is no relay, just a ten amp mini fuse. I've never had a problem with it popping

gnm109 - 12/14/2009 9:17 AM I've thought about an electric lean for my Harley/TLE rig but every time I think about it, I just go for a ride instead. This rig is the third one I've owned and apparently all of the tolerances flowed together in some magic combination. It's smooth steering and seems to be less bothered by changes in road crown than the prior ones. In other words, "if it ain't broke, why fix it". LOL. If you purchase a rig from some other manufacturer where the electric lean is an option, then by all means, get one. It would be a nice thing to have. On the other hand, it's not something that you necessarily need to engineer since the benefits are slight for the amount of effort necessary. There are too many other things on my list to worry about something that requires that much input. JMHO. YMMV.
I felt the same way, until I bought a sidecar with it installed. I'll never have another without. I normally ride with an empty car. I set the rig up accordingly and don't need to carry any excess ballast. When I do carry a passenger, especially with this little 1100cc Guzzi, I really feel the difference if I don't compensate. As it is, I raise the lean an inch and everything balances out. When the passenger or cargo is removed, I lower an inch and I'm good to go.
Now the brake, on the other hand, is another story. I thought it would be a nice thing to have with a lightweight motorcycle. I was wrong. The few times I have tried to apply it, even gently, it wants to throw the whole rig into the right ditch. I have relocated the pedal to where it is now ineffective. I wouldn't pay ten cents extra to have a brake on my next one. If it's there, fine. If it's not, better.
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