considering getting a Motorvation sidecar to put on my HD FLHTCU. One of the options is a self contained independent disc brake system. I was wondering if the option is worth the expense ($1000.00 plus) or I can get by with the standard break system. Thanks
In my opinion your triple disc brakes are entirely adequate. I have found an independent brake somewhat useful in off-road (enduro) conditions.
Unless the rig is very wide or very heavily loaded, I prefer sidecars with no brakes.
Lonnie
Thanks for the advice!
bwehner - 3/18/2012 10:33 AM considering getting a Motorvation sidecar to put on my HD FLHTCU. One of the options is a self contained independent disc brake system. I was wondering if the option is worth the expense ($1000.00 plus) or I can get by with the standard break system. Thanks
I had a brake on my Moto Guzzi/Motorvation rig and found them to be pretty much useless unless I just wanted to drag the sidecar tire. It certainly did nothing to improve the stopping distance. My Friendship also has them and I've never bothered to hook them up. Save yourself the money.
My feeling on brakes is that if they keep you out of an accident even once they are worth all of the cost and effort. Motovations sidecar brake is set up different then most every other sidecar brake around. I have found that their independent pedal set up is hard to set in such a way that it is easy to work every time you apply the rear brakes and make it feel right when doing so. The way we add a brake to the FLH is to tie it onto the rear brake of the bike and use a brake that is small enough to be well balanced with the bike. Our brake is a Brembo disk brake and comes standard on many of our sidecars and is a $550 option on others. Our most popular sidecar for your bike due to its cost, ease of entry and trunk that opens from the out side is the M72C sidecar.
I have had times with my first sidecar bike years ago a GL1100 with a CSC F1 sidecar where I did not have enough traction with the front tire to both steer and stop as it did not have a brake. All of my own sidecar bikes now always have a brake that is set up to be well balanced and easy to use. Saftey must come first.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
www.dmcsidecars.com
866-638-1793
My hannigan conte sidecar brake is tied into my back brake system and all it does is lock up the sidecar wheel. I have not found it useful. I even tried the proportioning valve but it did not work either. I disconnected it. I do most of my braking with the engine
On both bikes I owned/own were/are s/c breaks. Take care that back tire break and sidecar break are of the same style and use the same activation system.
so drum + drum or disc + disc actuated both by mecanical cable or both by hydraulic is ok. But never mix the types of breaks or the system of activation...
My first MZ/superelastic rig was a public danger just because of the hydraulic drum sidecar break joined to a mecanical back tire drum break.
Well, possibly the driver (me) was a public danger too. Nowerdays I am much calmer and do not have to straighten out the frame as many times as when I had been a student.
Now with the Jawa/Velorex rig with both drum brakes driven by mecanical cable I have perfect dosing and could handle an emergency even with lifted back tire.
You should have seen the huge eyes of the other drivers...
Sven
Please forgive my hijack...
I've finally come around to mounting an old Motorvation Formula II onto my GL1100. The order for the mounting hardware goes out as soon as I get my tax check back, but until then I'm working on the brake(s). The hack has an old Tokio disc brake off a 1974 KZ900. I've found the rebuild kit and the pads. Now it's a matter of deciding how to make it work. I have the bracket for a separate master cylinder setup, but no master cylinder. I suppose I could rig something up, but have been considering just tying it in to the back brake with a proportioning valve. After reading some of the comments above, I wonder if I should even do that!
karitoki - 4/3/2012 7:24 PM Please forgive my hijack... I've finally come around to mounting an old Motorvation Formula II onto my GL1100. The order for the mounting hardware goes out as soon as I get my tax check back, but until then I'm working on the brake(s). The hack has an old Tokio disc brake off a 1974 KZ900. I've found the rebuild kit and the pads. Now it's a matter of deciding how to make it work. I have the bracket for a separate master cylinder setup, but no master cylinder. I suppose I could rig something up, but have been considering just tying it in to the back brake with a proportioning valve. After reading some of the comments above, I wonder if I should even do that!
Since it's a disk brake and therefore requires no check valve and with a single caliper no proportioning, consider a clutch master cylinder off of a car. Much easier to find a suitable one.
SidecarMike - 4/3/2012 5:56 PM
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Since it's a disk brake and therefore requires no check valve and with a single caliper no proportioning, consider a clutch master cylinder off of a car. Much easier to find a suitable one.
Interesting idea. Just did a quick Google on them and saw that they have integrated fluid reservoirs. Very handy. Are the fittings usually a standard size thread? Thank you for the feedback!
karitoki - 4/3/2012 8:25 PM
SidecarMike - 4/3/2012 5:56 PM <!--QUOTE]
Since it's a disk brake and therefore requires no check valve and with a single caliper no proportioning, consider a clutch master cylinder off of a car. Much easier to find a suitable one.
Interesting idea. Just did a quick Google on them and saw that they have integrated fluid reservoirs. Very handy. Are the fittings usually a standard size thread? Thank you for the feedback!
The one's I've used have been. Take your line with you to the parts house. Do an ebay search for clutch master cylinder. The ones that come up will be identified as to fit. When you find one that looks like you can make it work, go to the parts house and compare. In years past, I have used the Jeep Wrangler one on a number of custom applications. I chose it because it had a metal reservoir.
It will take some futzing, but it can be done.
My FLHTC has disk brakes, my TLE sidecar has a drum brake. Sidecar and rear brake both work off the same mastercylinder with no proportioning valve and work just fine with no pull to either side when applied. Harley removes the pressure switch from the master, replaces it with a T fitting, then replaces the switch and installs the additional brake line to the car.
With the system properly bled, drum properly adjusted, I have no problem with brake pull at any speed, or pressure on the pedal. It works just fine.
Harley has over 100 years of engineering experience with coordinating their brake systems on sidecar rigs. No one else can make that statement. Many (if not most) sidecar brake systems are a potpourrie mix of unmatched parts and combined brake systems of mechanical and hydraulic drum and disc design.
I've never had brakes on a sidecar!
Well Lonnie, nice to hear your statement about HD.
may I add then that Jawa-Velorex should get the same credit at least for their tiny 350 two stroker.
The set up with 2 flexible cable to the both drums over the step lever works perfect to me. Just each time you have different load conditions you make 1/2 to 3 turns adjustments at the beginning of your ride and are well set up for the rest of the day.
If this applies to the modern 650 four stroker I cannot confirm though.
Happy Easter or Pesach to all.
I just come back from a part of the country were no roads are available. 45km/28 miles by boat through natural canals was needed. In Tortuguero even the caps and busses were boats. Everybody had somthing floating for transport. But I haven't seen a water-rig in these days.
Best regards
Sven
