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Comprehensive Sidecarism

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(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

OK, here's the deal. I've got a 1975 BMW/6 with a velorex sidecar and dauntless mounts. Since I couldn't find someone to buy it, I'm keeping the darn thing. How do I make it a road handling, safer, speedy sidecar rig? Right now I keep it on the local roadways because its just plain whack to drive at 60MPH (though solid as a rock.) WHere do I start with the madness, what time is it, where's my wallet?


 
Posted : August 28, 2006 9:36 am
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

first of all, make sure you have a subframe on the bike to mount the SC to. also, if you are using the stock velorex "U" clamps, lose them ...they never work properly...well... almost never. some get them tight enough with spot welds but not recommended.
next, make sure the SC frame is level with the ground befor mounting. adjust the mounts to keep the SC level sideways..a slight downward pitch to the front is OK but..not much.
the bottom mounts should be very close to the same height off the floor . front and rear.
next, when attaching the SC, make sure the toe-in is no more than 3/4 " or less in front than back. this measuremant is also not definite,,some need more ,some less.
this is measured by using 2-- 8' straight edges..[string can also be used]one along both bike wheels , extending out past front and rear of tires,allowing for the narrower front tire, and the other along the SC wheel also extending to front and rear, so you can measure the distance between the 2 straight edges in front and back..
once the toe-in is set, then adjust the lean out of the bike..normaly around 2 degrees from vertical. I usually use a carpenter square up against the rear wheel sidewall on the left side of it. it is close to 1/4 to 1/2 " further away from the tire at the bottom of the tire. remember this is only a ballpark figure..set it and try it at the speed you usually travel on the Hwy. 60-65.it should track striaght. if it keeps going to the right , lean it out a little more..if it goes left lean it in. just a little makes a big difference, so go slow with the adjustments.
another rhing to mention is adding ballast to the SC, to keep the wheel down on right turns.
if you can lift the sidecar wheel off the ground more than 3 or 4 ", when parked, by standing next to the bike, then get up on the left peg and pulling on the bars, you need more ballast.
none of this takes into account the front end that is on the bike..stock forks, leading links or modded triple trees.
you should have the suspension jacked up to high on rear of the bike, and heavier fork springs in the front.

try this stuff first , then let us know how you doing!!


 
Posted : August 28, 2006 10:15 am
(@sidecar-2)
Posts: 1696
Noble Member
 

William,

There are a lot of members in the East Ohio/West Penn. area. Perhaps someone will offer to take a look at things and give you some up close pointers.
I'm guessing Bob didn't see the part about Dauntless Mounts when he posted his reply, but check the rest of the stuff he mentions. He has first hand Velorex experience.


 
Posted : August 28, 2006 12:00 pm
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

yeah, I noticed the Dauntless mounts after I posted ...should be fine... hee hee!


 
Posted : August 28, 2006 12:03 pm
(@Hack__n)
Posts: 4720
Famed Member
 

I might add to preload the sidecar and bike suspension before final alignment.
Also most bikes have inadequate stock rear shocks for sidecar usage.
Heavier viscosity fork oil and perhaps PVC spacers in the front tubes will also help keep the front end up.
3/4" toe in measured below the axles and 1 degree leanout works for me with this bike/sidecar combo. With the bike and sidecar preloaded to anticipated road load weights.
If running empty, about 60# of soft ballast behind the sidecar seat will keep the sidecar wheel planted most of the time.

Lonnie


 
Posted : August 28, 2006 12:17 pm
(@Hack__n)
Posts: 4720
Famed Member
 

One more item.
If you have a pre 20mm axle and swing-arm car, upgrade the suspension for decent handling.
(We happen to have the upgrade.) Note the562 in my Avatar photo.

Lonnie
Northwest Sidecar
nwsidecar@aol.com


 
Posted : August 28, 2006 12:20 pm
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

Actually, guys I have all the basics covered, and the rig is properly adjusted and has a great sub-frame; I was thinking more of adaptations to the bike for improved handling and stability. front end conversion, fun and games like that. How do I get the most bang for my buck


 
Posted : September 11, 2006 10:05 am
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

Originally written by Brownw3 on 8/28/2006 1:36 PM

OK, here's the deal. I've got a 1975 BMW/6 with a velorex sidecar and dauntless mounts. Since I couldn't find someone to buy it, I'm keeping the darn thing. How do I make it a road handling, safer, speedy sidecar rig? Right now I keep it on the local roadways because its just plain whack to drive at 60MPH (though solid as a rock.) WHere do I start with the madness, what time is it, where's my wallet?

You mentioned below that 'it is adjusted properly', yet you say above that it is 'just plain whack to drive at 60'.
It cant be 'adjusted properly' if it doesnt drive easily at 60.
make sure the toe-in is in the 1/4 to 1" range, and the lead is between 4" and 12"..lean out should be around 2 degrees.. all these are ballpark figures..every rig will need alittle more or less.
also make sure the steering head bearings are snug...a little more than on a solo bike.
then try it.


 
Posted : September 11, 2006 1:42 pm
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

Oddly enough, guys I have reviewed all these suggestions and I'm right on the money with all of them. I fiddle faddled with the tire pressures a bit and Bam! the result is a comfy 75 MPH sidecar rig (not that I recommend that) without as much "floaty " feeling at high speed.

Thanks for the tips, though. I think during the winter I'm still going to pop on an additional steering damper. Cheers


 
Posted : October 11, 2006 6:15 am
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

Sounds like you just want more bang for the buck- swap out your engine for an R90 or R100. Make sure you have needlberings in the head that are adjusted tighter than for solo use. You probably won't need a steering damper anymore. Proper tire inflation also helps with slow-speed wobble.


 
Posted : October 12, 2006 6:20 pm