Car rim conversions.
Bill wrote:
>>Higher tire mileage, cheaper tires (likely never going to replace enough to offset high rim cost though) are the immediate things that come to mind.<<
This is true with some bikes and not true with others. Some bikes are more apt to benefit from an adaptor and running a off the shelf auto rim.
The bikes with a single sided swingarm are expecially friendly to utilize an adaptor.
I am building two rigs right now that will run off the shelf centrline automotive wheels on all three wheels. One is a K bIke and the other a BMWGS. Tires on all wheels will be 165r15s. We hav ehad reports of thes einexpensive tires running over 20,000 miles on a goldwing rig pullling a trailer with tread still left. On a lighter machine that has the option of rotating the tires and especially running the less expensive adaptors the longevity of the tires could be phenominal so the trade off related to overall economics is quite valid. Adaptors typically run at an average of 250 bucks dependant upon wheel backspacing etc etc. Wheel like these begin at around 135 or so.
The original poster may wish to contact Hannigan Motorsports for more info on the bandit speciscally.Their Bandito model is based on a bandit and is a true HPSidecar conversion. Not sure what they finally ended up using for the rear wheel.
Guess I should mention that the 165r15 tires typically run around 40 bucks. When i mentioned the off the shelf wheels being around $135 I was speaking of the narrow ones. Wider ones can get more costly of course. When using an adaptor it is quite popular to ustilze junk yard wheels for an even greater saving. Some have begun that way and then up graded to an aluminum wheel later on.
Sorry if we strayed off topic here. 🙂
Originally written by claude #3563 on 2/10/2006 9:43 PM
Bill wrote:
Higher tire mileage, cheaper tires (likely never going to replace enough to offset high rim cost though) are the immediate things that come to mind.
This is true with some bikes and not true with others. Some bikes are more apt to benefit from an adaptor and running a off the shelf auto rim.
In my experience, NOT the Bandit, lol..
The bikes with a single sided swingarm are expecially friendly to utilize an adaptor. I am building two rigs right now that will run off the shelf centrline automotive wheels on all three wheels. One is a K bIke and the other a BMWGS. Tires on all wheels will be 165r15s. We hav ehad reports of thes einexpensive tires running over 20,000 miles on a goldwing rig pullling a trailer with tread still left. On a lighter machine that has the option of rotating the tires and especially running the less expensive adaptors the longevity of the tires could be phenominal so the trade off related to overall economics is quite valid. Adaptors typically run at an average of 250 bucks dependant upon wheel backspacing etc etc. Wheel like these begin at around 135 or so.
No disagreement here - some motorcycle setups are more economical/by design easier to set up than others for alternative rolling chassis design. I love to see this sort of innovation and grass-roots engineering going on, whether here in north america, or in europe/uk market.
The original poster may wish to contact Hannigan Motorsports for more info on the bandit speciscally.Their Bandito model is based on a bandit and is a true HPSidecar conversion. Not sure what they finally ended up using for the rear wheel.
It's a Bill B. design, using an adapter hub mated to a Honda 4x100 pattern wheel. My understanding is that there was a limited run made, and sold.. but i guess an inquiry wouldn't hurt.
Bill wrote:
>>Originally written by claude #3563 on 2/10/2006 9:43 PM
Bill wrote:>>Higher tire mileage, cheaper tires (likely never going to replace enough to offset high rim cost though) are the immediate things that come to mind.<< This is true with some bikes and not true with others. Some bikes are more apt to benefit from an adaptor and running a off the shelf auto rim.
In my experience, NOT the Bandit, lol.. <<
I understand BILL. I HAVE SEEN YOU RIDE A SIDECAR RIG ....LOL.
Wasn't it you that spun out at Deal's Gap?
LOL.... 🙂
Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. Several of you have queried the cost advantage of changing wheels to cheap tyres so I think it might be wise for me to say that I have a friend that works in a machine shop and he will help me out for the cost of the raw materials and a crate of beerprovided that it is not a very complicated. This should tip the balance in my favour. 🙂
On the subject of rim differences, I did once labor in the reference section of the library for almost a day looking at all the British Standards for bike and car rims. At the time the standard for the aluminum motorcycle 17” diameter rims was still in draft. Because of this it was publicly unavailable unless you bought it for some ridiculous fee, so I never got to find out the actual differences. This was about 2 ½ years ago and for a different project that I never finished, or even really started, so I think if I looked again the standard may very well be there now.
I've just noticed that Bandit Bill has done a similar thing to his outfit so I'll be having a good look at his photo diary on his website of what he has done.
In as far as the standards measurements go, as far as the tire manufacturer's use, in making car and motorcycle tires, the following hold true:
MC Rims: 15": 15.080"; 16": 15.978"; 17: 17.080"; 18: 18.080"
Passenger Car Rims:15" 14.968"; 16": 15.968"; 17: 17.188; 18: 18.188"Lower than 17 inch the car rim sizes are 0.032" smaller than the nominal size
Thus, a 15" rim has a rim size of 14.968" and a 16" rim has a rim size of 15.968" But bigger than 17" the rim sizes are 0.188" bigger than nominal size a 17" rim size has a rim size of 17.188" and a 18" rim size has a rim size of 18.188"
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