Yupp, when I looked at it the only supplier with stronger grades had a minimum order of 100 units...100 M14 or M16 bolts are a lot of weight and € for to rest. That makes a good hole in your wallet.
I guess my shop has about 3000Mark in nuts, washers, bolts and other norm parts in stock that never moved since 1990. Luckily I bought most in stainless and galvanized...the black parts partially rusted away in the past or will soon as the Turrialba vulcano started to spit ash 2 month ago. :O
Those norm parts I ran out of I get each time seriously shocked when I have to buy them new...Whow, how prices went up!
You are right, Igor, what you do not get make them yourself, as long resistance is garantied.
Best luck
Sven
what you do not get make them yourself, as long resistance is garantied
Could you explain, Sven? Probably my english is too poor to understand this or I can understand something opposite.
I have similar problem with non-galvanized elements, as now my workshop is placed in cellar. Everything is ok while you use and ventile the place few days a week. But 2 weeks off and you get yhis typical wet smell and first rusty color on everything not coverred with oil. So when I buy non-galvanized bolts, I throw them to kerosene, then dry/leach and this thin oil coat is ok. Also beams, tubes and other material must be oiled to be stored in "metal room".
Hello Igor,
Explaination: As I live in a 3rd world country and selfdeclared myself 26 years ago a develpoment helper out of personal initiative, I was forced to work with the nails as we call it. => ( Poland always had been a highly industrialized country compared to us in Costa Rica. )
So the only way to get things done and running, was to invent cheap viable solutions. As the few norm part importers had a HORRIBLE poor stock. My tool supplier in Germany had 45.000 different norm items on stock as "complemental service" , while the largest local supplier anounced he would have 18.000 different norm parts on stock...a total lie. I had to produce even simple allan screws for him for a couple of years. I stopped to do so when he became unreliable in payments. Later his supply service became even worse.
As I had to invent or reproduce more then one part, my philosophy was, "What I cannot buy from stock I will build myself" with the help of my best collegues. (including high precision high speed spindles for multiple copy carving machines. The special bearings I got from Germany) As safety reserve I used to construct very heavy duty =>"Sven, You deliver me a Bismark, when I asked you for a row boat!"
The man who used to say the last ruined his fathers factory shortly after I left the place, In return while over 90% of my inventions are still in production or served until the production lines were closed down.
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Igor, with the humidity in the cellar you have only two ways to get rid of it.
First get temperature at least 3 degree above the drip/dew point.
Second have controlled air interchange. IN AND OUT. dry in, humid out.
Dry warm air is light, while cold humid air is heavy.
The humidity in the cellar comes through the walls, Logically the cellar will become a rust nest when you do not help against that. In winter you usually have the boiler, in summer the window...and the rest of the year you better help yourself.
Two small ventilators can work wonders...at my mother in law I installed 2 chineese cheap extractor ventilators (works for to dry the bath room and to cool the living room even in the worst heat=> no AC needed) . In my new shop room 2 computer fans for 3,50€ with 8W each will do the trick... Using a oven pipe or flexible 6" airduct, send living room air into the upper part of the cellar, close the door and window, and suck the humid cold air from the floor in the opposit corner and send it to the boiler room or out side, or where you want fresh humid not too cold air (example wintergarden)
The main trick is to have continuous air change at a NOT CONDENSING temperature all the time.
My new to build shop room will be a former 20 feet refrigeration container that will including have a water mist cooling for to eliminate the vulcano ashes, dust and acids using a simple fridge compressor for full climate control (cool water mist for to eliminate dust and condense humidity / warm water for reheating and dry air) in cold times the solar system will have to help for heating. You will be amazed how simple and cheap a infrastructure can be controled when the design is right from the beginning. (In my case usually the controler is more expensive then the infrastructure = High end PLC/DDC with recycled scrap machine parts and reusing energy sources that would otherwise be wasted. )
An old house with cellar in a wet surrounding is a whole different story...I see that each rainy season when the lack of heating charges a high toll in deteriorating walls... the water crawls through the walls and the paint "blooms".
As rust preventive I am happy with a 50/50 mixture of thin hydraulic oil with Castrol RUSTILO (a paste like oil / recine for machine oversee shipping) . (for removing rust I add 1/3 Canfin / Lamp keroseene / Lampenpetroleum )
Yesterday I passed the afternoon turning a few parts and got horrified about the rusted inventory and tools in my shop.
Good luck with your cellar shop.
Sven
I have "two small ventilators" mounted in brother's garage and they do wonders. Now it's summer and they are off but still open. Before installation the garage was so wet, that his motorcycle got almost "rotten" after less than year. Now I can leave some unoiled steel parts and they stay unrusted. Also have one PC fan in cellar, pumping out. So we will have to add a next one pumping dry air from house.
I also have a welding place ventillation system that can do over 1000 cubic meters per hour and you shouldn't stand under it in hat 🙂 When I run it in winter, not opening door first, it sucks all fume from chimney, so I added a trapdoor that opens when a vent system makes some underpressure in room. In dry Summer it's enough to leave it open. But when it rains, I prefer to leave it closed - don't need additional humidity. In winter I open the doors between house and workshop, and "steal" dry air from house, running this vent system at half power for half hour.
Bike mods. First pre-pre-attempt to hack:
Rear upper mount. "Patent" I copied from some MZ frame I saw, it was called (in free translation) "gespane edition" and had some changes in compare to "standard edition".
Reinforced and rigided pasesenger's footpeg frame, for use as rear lower mount:
Upper front mount, engine guard as a part of subframe, original driver's footpegs (cast steel) acting as subframe-frame mountings. There are not lower front mount yet.
A month later (yesterday):
The most beautiful hack that left my workshop. And the first made from scratch to windscreen finish. Everything done using all my experience and know-how, without experiments. Only the front lamp is slightly too big, but it's intentional. that is the only available lamp that looks like position lamp but can have 21W bulb and will not melt. In Poland it's forbidden to mount a headlight/foglight on sidecar, but the position one is mandatory. So we mounted Simson lamp that is homologated as position and can be legally equipped with slightly stronger bulb. Sidecar frame is ry high over the ground, and it's the best I could do. The next work will be lifting my SC to the same height, allowing it to ride anywhere.
I forgot my camera and my phone (me taking photos on this pphoto) did very bad quality pics. So now I have only one picture taken by Roman (hack owner). After taking this pic, he did his first meters on 3 wheels. Super fun for me to observe it, then I gave Roman a course. How to use clutch, how to ride straight, brake, some big left turn, then tighter, then some right. You know, everybody had to learn it, not everyone had a teacher 🙂 Afrer course, Roman arrived home doing about 300 kilometers, today he did about 100 with fresh theory in head. We will meet on a Friutgarden Rally 25th of luly, so I will have an opportunituy to take more photos
Congratulation Igor,
Your s/c suspension looks much better then the stupid "rubberband like" MZ "Superelastic" suspension .The MZ always hit right into branches and snow blocks dropped from trucks. So that higher ground clearance will do a good job in winter and in the forest. It will be a tippy rig, so Roman should use some ballast in the back of the trunk. 60 to later 30kg should work fine.
Nice work and may the "Janek Igorowitsch" Junak last many years and KM.
Masseltov.
Sven
PS: I would love to come by in the late summer, but am sure that the "boss" will have something against it. Stay Junggeselle and You will not have such troubles. 😉
"To marry is the desperate attempt to solve problems that would not exist without marriage!" :O Original tone Hubert and Monika from Swizerland who lived 42 years in "wild marriage" after both were devourced.
Suspension is very rigid two-side swinarm with one-side damper, that I saw in some hack. Arms are 15x40x1,5 profile, so they are naturally rigid in vertical pos. This swingarm worked in my first hack. I reinforced it to work as one-side and rode it about half year, so it's prooved. Laid in my shop for about two years, so let it serve.
Whole hack rides surprisingly stable as for such high placed tub. 0kg of ballast for me (offroad, I tested) and 40 kg for Roman is really ok. These lightweigt bikes need less anvils in car. My first hack, that I learned to ride, had 8" less track and the car weighted less than half of this. And 30 kg was enough to ride without problems. 30 kg in this makes it very very hard to flip. Also it does about 40mph max, so even a bigger bump can't catapult it.
And it rides like on rails, much better than mine. I would have to correct my car's geometry after all these mods, especially after equipping it in LPG tank. As always, the shoemaker’s children are ill-shod (in Polish, literally, "the shoemaker walks barefoot").
Organizer of Fruitgarden Rally wants me to to make a hack for his younger son, so 2015 can be my first year to make rigS for someone else 🙂
Good job Igor!! Roman should be very happy. With both your work on his rig and the lessons. He's off to a good adventure.
Congratulations Igor,
Your word is runing out and gives its first fruits.
In Costa Rica we use to say "Casa de herrero, cuchillo de palo." = In the house of the blacksmith the knife is made out of a wooden club.
I have done too many automation proyects to count them, but my wife blames me for an electric farm gate since 1994 when I made a manual one...the motor and accesory is in my shop since about 2002 and I burnt it at a client already once in 2009 (shortened 3rd leg on powersupply in a portal crane was impossible to find and when I tested the phases everything was fine until the first movement..brzrzrzrzrt...)...well anyway the gate is rotten and needs first to be newly made.
A well matured swing arm! Just as a good wine!
Thanks a lot for the laugh.
Good luck with future proyects and may Roman learn fast and safe.
Big question mark>? Did you convert your own rig to LPG gas as fuel? TELL MORE, PLEASE!
Sven
(PS> anecdote that should not be followed> may Roman not follow Roman Krause's example. He died in 1986 only 2 weeks after I told him he was not ready for a 750 bike. Roman Krause overtook with 160kmh on top of a hill and hit the hidden bike that came ahead with 130kmh. He caused 1 further dead and a paralysed woman with amputaded left leg. A well meant present from his father turned out to become a real nightmare. Motorcycles in wrong hands become dangerous.)
My hack and Roman's hack. In his, track is something wide comparing to bike's wheelbase. And thanks to smaller engineguard, looks even wider. Also many Macgyver's patents that overgrow my bike like an ivy, make distance between bike and tub look tighter than in clean Roman's hack.
Sven, for LPG conversion I will set a separate topic in Technical Discussion.
