I am working on a velorex JAWA sidecar that I will be puting on my 83 goldwing 1100.
I am aware of the issues this causes and am adressing them.
I am reinforcing and gusseting the frame,
Converting to a torsion suspension,
Building it heavier as well as a place to add race car lead weights as needed.
And will be using a automotive tire and wheel combo.So I guess I am just using a velorex body and building the frame.
I have two questions,
1) Is there any issue with using a torsion arm and hub from a trailor suplier?And would I use a 500# or 800#.....(per pair)weight capacity
2)I am planning on a 13" wheel,would I want a skinier or wider tire,and can I mix a radial in with the bias ply on the bike,or do I need to use a bias ply on the hack?
Any advice or even critsysm is welcome on this project.
My daughter had a 1000# torsion axle on her California I. It worked fine. It also had a 13 inch car tire.
I can see no reason why it should matter if the sidecar tire is radial or bias ply. It does not drive nor steer, it only goes along for the ride.
I wondered the same thing and it was pointed out that I think your talking about (rubber bushed axel stub) wasn't a good choice unless it had a shock on it to stop it from bouncing and collapsing in right hand corners, if the load you had on was 600 lbs it would act a lot different plus being rubber encapsulated it can move back and forth which would effect toe in, I could be wrong on some of this and I'm sure someone will correct me if I am.
Dont the California SideCars (at least the friendship Is) use a torsion suspension?
Or theres differant?
The pre-1989 California (CSC) sidecars had torsional suspension. They used steel straps (ala VW Beetle) for the torsion reactive units. After 1989 they went to trailing link with a coil over adjustable shock suspension.
They also upgraded the lower mounts from a tiny ball and collet setup to heim joint/clevis mounts which were much safer.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars
