I have also posted this on the EML list.
The 1985 eml sport/bmw r100rt sat for 20 years.
I put new tires on it, Kreemed the rusty tank, cleaned carbs, cleaned front calipers and then started on rear brake bleeding. the rear brake felt o/k before I started bleeding them but now it seems to be sucking in air at mastercylinder because the oil is coming out foamy.
What kind of cylinder would be on this rig ? There are no markings on it. It apears to maybe be a car cylinder ? its about 4 inches long, large diameter, rough cast aluminum. I would like to get a rebuild kit or replace.
Any help / suggestions would be apreciated.
Ross
Don't know about the brakes but when the "Kreem" dislodges itself from the tank interior and starts plugging the fuel filters and outlet (as it has both timesI have used it) the best way to clean it out is fill the tank with MEK, let it sit overnight and remove the rubble with a compressed air operated vacuum (no possible sparks). Last time I tried it (1995) it took 10 gallons of MEK to completely clear the 5 gal. tank.
Lonnie
Hi Ross,
Couple quick things:
Any chance you can post some pictures of this mastercylinder?
Maybe yank it and take it to an Auto Parts Store for ID? Or, what about replacing it with one that is similar?
Good Luck
~ Russell
The times I had rusty tanks:
1982 (1974 Honda) nitro paint worked well, but gave after a while a "smeer".
1994 (1960 Willies) + 2004 (On my actual rig that had been sitting since 2001 in the factory crate) recine for fibre glass worked well and never gave trouble afterwards. I never found it attacked by the gasoline.
The worst part of the work was the tumbling with stones....I never had been smart enough to mount the tank on top of a concrete mixer and just move the declination once in a while.
Regards
Sven
Kreem might possibly work on a brand new tank but it won't work very well on a tank with any rust in it. The rust remover they give in the kit is a very low percentage phosphoric acid. It's not strong enough to remove the rust, even if used according to instructions. I only used it once and it came out after about two years. My bike would stop every few miles and I would have to drain the tanks to get all of the Kreem flakes out.
I finally got it out with acetone and two pounds of nuts and bolts. After it was out, I ran the tanks bare and kept them full when parked. I never had another problem.
Gaylord,
may I suggest that after a long rain season or winter, that you first drain the accumulated water in the deepest point of the tank and the carbs.
Early last year I had a nice surprise because of water in the carb... and no torch light nor tools in the middle of nowhere.
Sven
Peter Pan - 10/22/2010 7:24 AM
Gaylord,
may I suggest that after a long rain season or winter, that you first drain the accumulated water in the deepest point of the tank and the carbs.
Early last year I had a nice surprise because of water in the carb... and no torch light nor tools in the middle of nowhere.
Sven
Good suggestion, Sven. I've checked many times but no water so far. The bike is parked inside when I'm not riding it.
In deed, I had it before on bikes that passed most of the time outside.
The last surprise was because the governmental Petrol company did not see any need to anounce to the public that they had added that week 7% ethanol to the premium gas....just for test....
They are very considerated, aren't they?
Sven
Last time I used Kreem was on a new set of Custom Chrome Panhead tanks as was recommended by CC. Almost immediate failure with line wrapped around outlet screens. Nothing but trouble.
I kept the dried skins hanging on the shop wall as a reminder to all that Kreem was not the best answer.
I've used in line (cleanable) sintered bronze filters with old tanks since then with good results.
Lonnie
This post should have been labeled "rusty tank"
During my research of kreem coating I came across a few posts from people who also had problems with delamination but more people seemed to have sucsess. I have accepted the fact that someday it will need to be redone, hopefully not for at least a few years.
Thorough preparation is the key. Some people dry the tank before adding the kreem. This allows flash rusting which leads to delamination.
I'm taking the master cylinder around to a few motorcycle and brake shops to see what my options are.
Ross,
just a little "spin off" on the topics.
Quite normal...
Good luck with the lurking for the break parts.
Sven
i uploaded a couple pics...folder name: altcycles
I can't find anything close to this in my town.
I might have to make mounts for a car cylinder.
Check out jpcycles.com. They have several motorcycle master cylinders in their catalogthat might be adaptable to your needs.
Lonnie
I have a Breembo 16mm rear mc coming in the mail.
