I understand that with a hack on there is not as much weight on the rear wheel of the motorcycle itself. But how much does the hack help? Can I use a tire which has a load range of B instead of the C load range I usually use?
The Bike is an 88flhtp with a california hack.
Bike weighs 712 dry. Driver, passenger, and gear weigh 400 to 450
hack must weigh 250???? what would you guess the rear wheel load at?
I have a tire here I would like to try that has a load limit of 675 load range B. Any thoughts? We are going to be using it in AZ this winter it should be in the 70's when we are there.
Thanks,
Joe
UMMM..
Guess I will let you know when we get the wheel back on. Should be a couple days. If the weather holds the OL should be able to drive it into town and put it on one of the truck scales here.
Maybe not,
We are getting an inch of snow an hour as I speak.
Darn...
Joe
Hello Joe,
on a side car back tire you have way more load and side forces then on a single bike.
With two passengers that caused me once nearly that the back tire wanted to come off the rim. Hell of a feeling....=>had to get rid fast of that girlfriend who caused the nearly accident (other story, long ago)
In lack of original tires in one ocasion I used chinese block tires. They felt like a pencil eraser in every bend and were gone in 2.000km (1450mi).
I put back on very fast the original Jawa tire, that have strong side walls and much better grip. They go for 8.000-10.000km (5.000-6.500mi) at least with Peter Pan as driver. With somebody with less hot blood possibly much more. And with these tires you have a good hold on the road.
Off topic: In these days I made with our three cars a similar experience. We had to thange tires on all three.(Van/4*4/spare toy) This time I asked first a car rental owner. The result, tires that were a few bucks more expensive (+10 to 15%). But you do not recognize the cars => stable, good grip, good breaking, good off road behaveiour, less air pressure needed for more load. Now lets look for how many km/miles.
Keep it in mind. You will see as stiffer the tires sidewalls are as better the rig will behave.
Regards
Sven Peter
PS. The post from yesterday night got lost. Strange.
CSC FS I empty 205#. Rated load capacity 300#.
Approximately 1/2 of that static weight will be on the bike. Dynamic weight loading will vary with road camber and turns.
A tire with a 675# load range takes into consideration normal road shock impact loads and variations in loading from turning, accelerating and stopping.
Lonnie
For an easy way to find out what the static load is visit your local garden center or building center that has a scale. If you are a known customer it will likely be free to measure the weight at each wheel with your normal load on the bike.
Our rig is a GL1800 with Champion Escort and the normal load is the SO and myself on the bike with three Heelers in the Hack and a few tools in the trunk for ballist.
After finding out what the true load was I switched the front tire from a 130 to a 140 and upped the load rating of the Car Tire on the back of the bike. You will be supprised how over loaded the stock tires will be and that isn't taking into count the dynamic load that results from flying the chair or hard corners.
Jerry
i tried a twin tire on the rear - the small one with the lower load range - threw the tread in 3k.. just got too hot... at 40psi it would start to stink on a hot day with a passenger going over 70.. handled real nice just not strong enough.. for a light rider and a light passenger - and no tour pak i think it would be just fine - but im not light - i run right at the max gvwr of 1600 lb when two up with stuff.
for fronts or sidecar they are fine - i have a 145r/15 on the rear 1000 lb load rating - works fine.
to
I'll keep a good eye on the tire on the trip.
If it starts to run hot etc or looks like it is going to be a problem I will pull the wheel and buy another one. If the wife complains about the handling I will also know where to look first.
I'm taking a jack just incase.
Thanks alot,
Joe
