Harley hack question

Mary Jo - 4/1/2013 10:06 AM

I have a 06 Ultra with TLE sidecar.

There is a footrest of sorts in the front of the sidecar. Is there any way to remove this to add more leg room?
The dash also gets in the way, and we are discussing removing that (thanks for the info from here on that surgery)

It seems to be part of the construction and is covered with carpet. Before I tear that up, I'd like to know if anyone knows what's under there. I haven't found any information in the manual or on the internet.

Thanks,
MJ

I am just going by mine but I think the step is part of the fiber glass construction please correct me if I am wrong. I do like the fact that when I am taking someone for a quick ride behind the step is a good place to put the cover. But I do understand what you are saying.

The reason I got a standard HD sidecar was I did not like the dash hanging down on the Ultra sidecar. Harley sidecars are hard enough to get in and out even with out the dash and the dash just makes it so much harder.

As long as there are no structural framing members hidden under the foot rail you should be able to take it down with a common angle grinder and then get some glass mat/roving and gel coat and recover the area. You may not want to remove it entirely, but just take it down so it's less obtrusive or restrictive. There's usually some fiberglas kits in auto supplies that have both the mat and the gel coat in one package, especially those who serve the auto painter & bodywork trades. Also widely available online.

Allow plenty of fresh air with gel coat and be careful if you're using acetone for cleanup and prep, it's toxic, extremely spark flammable and noxious.

You could check for hidden structural in floor rail by drilling a couple of holes with a 1/8" bit into a few areas on hump. If you don't hit steel you're probably okay. If you do hit steel just stop, and the 1/8" holes won't cause any problems at all.

On the dash board that does serve partially as a structural member so you wouldn't want to remove it entirely. But if it's say 6" wide you could cut it down to 2" or 3" and still have the structural integrity with easier access. Again, after cutting it with a jig saw or coping saw or angle grinder etc. just a light coat of the same gel coat over the area to cover exposed fiberglas fibers should have you in good shape. It's also possible to add a thin wood strip behind dash as reinforcement on the part you leave in place, and glue it in place with more fiberglas mat/roving and gelcoat.

Using rubber gloves, fresh air and reasonable care in a spark free atmosphere the glass work is easy and kinda fun, if you let it be!

If you are going to cut fiberglass make sure you have a good respirator!

I personally after looking at my 06 standard Harley sidecar think the foot rest is structural as it has some sort of square tube running behind it. I would think if it was not structural Harley would not have it to give more room. As far as the dash I have nothing there but seems to get thicker a few inches back. Here are a few pictures of mine. I hope it helps.

XLerate - 4/2/2013 6:01 PM

As long as there are no structural framing members hidden under the foot rail you should be able to take it down with a common angle grinder and then get some glass mat/roving and gel coat and recover the area. You may not want to remove it entirely, but just take it down so it's less obtrusive or restrictive. There's usually some fiberglas kits in auto supplies that have both the mat and the gel coat in one package, especially those who serve the auto painter & bodywork trades. Also widely available online.

Allow plenty of fresh air with gel coat and be careful if you're using acetone for cleanup and prep, it's toxic, extremely spark flammable and noxious.

You could check for hidden structural in floor rail by drilling a couple of holes with a 1/8" bit into a few areas on hump. If you don't hit steel you're probably okay. If you do hit steel just stop, and the 1/8" holes won't cause any problems at all.

On the dash board that does serve partially as a structural member so you wouldn't want to remove it entirely. But if it's say 6" wide you could cut it down to 2" or 3" and still have the structural integrity with easier access. Again, after cutting it with a jig saw or coping saw or angle grinder etc. just a light coat of the same gel coat over the area to cover exposed fiberglas fibers should have you in good shape. It's also possible to add a thin wood strip behind dash as reinforcement on the part you leave in place, and glue it in place with more fiberglas mat/roving and gelcoat.

Using rubber gloves, fresh air and reasonable care in a spark free atmosphere the glass work is easy and kinda fun, if you let it be!

What year Harley sidecar are you running? I just read your other post and think you need to own a Harley hack before giving advice. If someone does what you recommend and get hurts sorry to say you can be liable.

Thanks fellas.....looks like I'll use this one when I'm going solo or taking shorter folks for a ride.
I'll use my other rig when I'm the passenger.

I'm thinking if there is any resale value at all with this, I don't want to risk screwing it up.

Mary Jo - 4/2/2013 9:48 PM

Thanks fellas.....looks like I'll use this one when I'm going solo or taking shorter folks for a ride.
I'll use my other rig when I'm the passenger.

I'm thinking if there is any resale value at all with this, I don't want to risk screwing it up.

I do not blame you as I would hate to start hacking it up. Maybe you can find another body.

46u - 4/2/2013 3:19 PM

XLerate - 4/2/2013 6:01 PM

As long as there are no structural framing members hidden under the foot rail you should be able to take it down with a common angle grinder and then get some glass mat/roving and gel coat and recover the area. You may not want to remove it entirely, but just take it down so it's less obtrusive or restrictive. There's usually some fiberglas kits in auto supplies that have both the mat and the gel coat in one package, especially those who serve the auto painter & bodywork trades. Also widely available online.

Allow plenty of fresh air with gel coat and be careful if you're using acetone for cleanup and prep, it's toxic, extremely spark flammable and noxious.

You could check for hidden structural in floor rail by drilling a couple of holes with a 1/8" bit into a few areas on hump. If you don't hit steel you're probably okay. If you do hit steel just stop, and the 1/8" holes won't cause any problems at all.

On the dash board that does serve partially as a structural member so you wouldn't want to remove it entirely. But if it's say 6" wide you could cut it down to 2" or 3" and still have the structural integrity with easier access. Again, after cutting it with a jig saw or coping saw or angle grinder etc. just a light coat of the same gel coat over the area to cover exposed fiberglas fibers should have you in good shape. It's also possible to add a thin wood strip behind dash as reinforcement on the part you leave in place, and glue it in place with more fiberglas mat/roving and gelcoat.

Using rubber gloves, fresh air and reasonable care in a spark free atmosphere the glass work is easy and kinda fun, if you let it be!

What year Harley sidecar are you running? I just read your other post and think you need to own a Harley hack before giving advice. If someone does what you recommend and get hurts sorry to say you can be liable.

Well as long as we're apparently expressing opinions here, I've got some too. First, I think you need to learn to read what's written. That's different from what you might think is written, without reading it and understanding what it says. In the first sentence you might notice: "As long as there are no structural framing members hidden under the foot rail you should be able to take it down with a common angle grinder..."

Later I wrote, "You could check for hidden structural in floor rail by drilling a couple of holes with a 1/8" bit into a few areas on hump. If you don't hit steel you're probably okay. If you do hit steel just stop, and the 1/8" holes won't cause any problems at all."

Also: "On the dash board that does serve partially as a structural member so you wouldn't want to remove it entirely."

And: "It's also possible to add a thin wood strip behind dash as reinforcement on the part you leave in place, and glue it in place with more fiberglas mat/roving and gelcoat"

Also: "Allow plenty of fresh air with gel coat and be careful if you're using acetone for cleanup and prep, it's toxic, extremely spark flammable and noxious."

And: "Using rubber gloves, fresh air and reasonable care in a spark free atmosphere the glass work is easy and kinda fun..."

In addition to other quats I listed [which I would rather have not] in the other thread where you objected, I was also in the fiberglass sports and racing boat and blue water commercial wood boat business for several years as a boatright and shipwright so yes, I have experience with fiberglass and modification.