Dauntless makes the "attachment fitting" for a K100 BMW........... has anyone used these same fittings for attaching a sidecar to the K1100LT. My m/c is a 97 with ABS-2 and I would probably use a double pedal for the car brake. What car did you use? And, is it a "must" do, that attachment fittings be bought in concert with the "car". If possible I would like to do this work over the winter. Any help and comments would be appreciated. David Hough had an excellent article using a K1 and either a EZL or the other Dutch supplier (BMWON mag) but I would prefer the support of an American supplier for subframe and car. I do all my own work (most recent, crown bearing R&R in FD of my K1200LT). Do to cost I will probably not do a leading link front end until some miles and experience builds up.
I have a 94 K1100LT with EZS subframe, wheels and leading link to which I've attached a Champion Escort sidecar. It is a nice match/set up. Very stable. Very fast. Very good looking. If you are thinking of eventually going leading link and using auto tires suggest you give some thought to going with your desired end product to start with. I believe it will save you a little money in the long run, some extra wrenching, and you'll enjoy the "sweet-ride" a little earlier and a lot longer.
I've also a R1100GS/Ural with Dauntless subframe and struts. All is well built (I've not been able to break it yet) and bolted right up.
Your EZS supplier is on the West Coast; the same as Dauntless.
Danny
I have a 1200C with a Champion with Dauntless mounts. I don't want to go into the detail and horrors of working with Dauntless, but you can find a lot of stories on this site about them. The LT, with the additional HP, would make for one quick ride. The C can haul my wife and I and all of our stuff comfortably to 75 mph all day, on the flats, but the mountains slow us down a bit. I guess that is what 3rd and 4th gears are all about. Pick you hack and then try to find the mounts. There are a lot of folks out there that can help you with this project. Champion does make a nice hack. We too have the Escort, and my wife loves it.
Carl,
If you don't plan to use a leading link the EZS subframe is not an option. It REQUIRES a new front end. If you want to know if Jay's subframe will fit your bike call him and ask. He's pretty open. I've installed one of his subframes on a friend's bike and it went on easily but it wasn't nearly as complex as a K-bike subframe would be.
Like one of the other folks who answered you, I had a K1100LT (ABS1) with an EZS subframe, includeing leading link front end, and mated it to an EML sidecar. Everything worked fine. I had the sidecar brake plumbed into the rear wheel. NB- If you are planning to use the EZS sunframe and leading link you might want to weigh your check book first. Those pieces and the auto style wheels cost s bit over $6k about three years ago.
Thanks to each of you for the incite.
Of course I hoped someone might have used the Dauntless subframe brackets that are made for the BMW K100 on a K1100LT. I don't have access to a K100 so am unable to do measurements and compare to my m/c but with the lower covers (tupperware) off they look the same (Via pictures). I must call Jay and see if I simply removed my lower plastic and see what he thinks. I would like to get the subframe on and meantime decide on a sidecar. I can bracket my remaining fairings (uppers) for necessary regidity.
Danny, Ubermon, Al, your rigs sound well thought out but for now the EZL and EML Dutch rigs are not feasible since I want to keep both my K1100LT and my K1200LT and the total money outlay would be prohibitive. I like the idea of the subframe going up to the triple tree but for now I must settle for a lesser frame/ connect. I can see the HPS direction and need but I must start somewhere to learn.
I think if the right old BMW showed up not far away I might get it to learn on. But, I getting nowhere fast as it is!
I have used Dauntless subframe for a K100 and they worked well. We also build our own subframe and have two scheduled to do next week. Can do a third one while we're at it if you wish 🙂
Dog....
I have a buddy here in Miami with an R80 and velorex hack for sale in the $4500 range. Bubbacop2@aol.com. His name is Sergio. He didn't list it here for some unknown reason, but it is in great shape and runs very well. I don't know where you live, but it is great riding down here now.
Uber
Claude,
You are talking about the K100 subframe fore and aft. Will your subframe bolt onto the K1100LT? (I would probably take my lower 3 pieces off and stiffen the upper fairings with welded fabricated brackets which I can do) to facilitate moving along on this project!
Thanks Uber, lets see if Claude has some news.
Originally written by Tourdog on 12/28/2006 8:59 PM
Claude,
You are talking about the K100 subframe fore and aft. Will your subframe bolt onto the K1100LT? (I would probably take my lower 3 pieces off and stiffen the upper fairings with welded fabricated brackets which I can do) to facilitate moving along on this project!Thanks Uber, lets see if Claude has some news.
.....................................................................
One I am doing will be for a K100LT. To tell you the truth I am not totally sure iof a K11 is the same or not.I would assume it is but assumptions are not a good idea. Gotta be close if it is not exactly the same but we are not talikning horshoes and hangrenades. If you find out for sure please post here.
It's really hard to tell if there is significant cross over between the K100 and K1100. There are two frame numbers for each model. the K1100 frame changed in July of '93 (same time they went to the larger alternator.
My subframe is attached to the front engine mounts, the sides of the oilpan and the gearbox casing (mounting to where the sidestand/centrestand would normally bolt to). I've swapped subframes from an 8 valve K100 to a 16 valve K100RS (which would be no different to a K1100 as far as the mounting points go).
The only difference I had that was an issue was the exhaust headers, the 16 valve has an equal length system with one header kicking out sideways that caused me a clearance problem when fitting the 8 valve subframe on to the 16 valve bike. Fixed with some heat to put a dent in the subframe tubing in my case, yours may vary.
The short answer, the subframe should just bolt up to the same spots as a K100 and K1100 aren't very different. If the K100 subframe runs close to the exhaust headers, it might not clear the K1100 pipes.
Al
Claude, Al (Minnesota) & Al (Australia),
Thanks all. I do appreciate each and every bit of advice. I think my K1200LT will be my Hannigan sc and I'll ride my K1100LT as the 2-wheeler. Enough sidecarist tell me the "Reverse" is worth it to have, so that tilts me in this direction. The K11 would have been more compact and fit my Aluma MC-10 twin motorcycle trailer better, but the K12 will fit with the LT Hannigan sc too, (but a little more snugly).
One concern we have not addressed here is the differences in fairings between some of the models. The early LT had a more abreviated fairing than the later 1100 models. If a suframe is to be constuted that will not require potentially a lot of cutting on the fairing this can be a big concern.
FYI/FWIW: The EZS subframe on my 94 K1100LT runs from the transmission to the engine mounts to the steering neck. It required three new or expanded holes or ports in the fairing. Two round holes to reach the upper front motormounts and one halfmoon notching to clear the subframes forward strut mounting point. I chose to remove, rather than cut up, the lower part of the front of engine fairing (just below radiator)to allow for the subframe tubes that reach up to the steering neck. It's not hard to mount this subframe or to hole-saw and grind the plastic; just a lot of wrenching and a need to measure three times before you cut anything.
Danny
K1100LT/EZS/Champion Escort
R1100GS/Dauntless/Ural
