Additional Battery

I don't want to ruin your day...but 360 watts in a 12 volt system is 30 amps... Actually that is alot, unless you really like lights,and big stereo blasters... I get by very well with 200 watts..16.6 amps..

Joel
BMW /6 with MZ-B system and Velorex

For short rides perhaps. for longer rides simply the draw is higher then the loading rate, so very soon you get to the point like I:
The light will drop right in front of the fender... and later not even the spark get lower when you burnt the alternator....(regards from Easter trip 1988 to Spain)
Sven

You can reduce the electrical load by replacing the light bulbs with LED bulbs...and remember you only use turn signals and horn very little time... then add up all the additional load...it's pretty easy to do....someone must know the wattage that an electric seat takes...and an electric vest...etc..

Joel

My mistake, 30 Amps is correct. Most of the items on the bike as standard consume the majority of the available power. As was stated not all items are continuous draw like Carb heaters x4 etc. however the following items all consume a large amount of power, Cruise Control, Intercom, CB Radio, Music System with 4 speakers. Headlight 55W-60W and others I cannot think of at this time

So will the addition of an extra battery help with the additional requiremnts. If so, whats the best way to tackle the issue

Thanks

The additional battery will help by providing a reserve - but if you're operating at a deficit you will only extend the amount of time you can ride before needing to recharge. With your accessories on, you'll still need ~14v at the battery (with the engine running), otherwise you'll need to put it on a charger. Intercom shouldn't draw too much - don't know as I've never used one. With my rig, I could ~just~ run the heated vest (280W alternator) but now have upgraded the alternator to 400W output and added two Optima 6v batteries (in series) to provide adequate electrical power. Didn't really need to go with the batteries, considering the alternator upgrade, but figured it was a worthwhile modification.
If you add an "extra" battery you'll want to do some research - some folks have had problems with differing charge rates (if your auxilliary battery is still low it could cause the alternator/voltage regulater to overcharge the bike battery). I eliminated the standard bike battery all together, and had an external battery box mounted between the tug and the tub, so now it's serving double duty as ballast.

Here's another option - leave your nearly new 2007 battery to handle the lighting and such, and put an Optima in the hack to power heated seat, stereo etc... no need to hook it into the charging system, just plug it in at the end of the day.

i left my stock battery as is, and added a deep cycle stereo battery, in the back of the sidecar that powers my 300+ watt stereo system, 2 cameras, cell phone / ipod charger, i added a separate on/off switch, and external charging posts
I have a couple vids on youtube if you'd like to see what i did

http://www.youtube.com/user/sidecarsavannah#p/u/31/VKzvI-62QDs
http://www.youtube.com/user/sidecarsavannah#p/u/2/91VIPwcsl2c

Thanks for the suggestions, I think maybe I will go with a seperate deep cycle battery in the Hack and charge it externally after each use. 🙂

Holley Cow, with all that stuff, you should be looking at a wind generator or a solar wing...

Joel

jrapose - 2/22/2010 7:18 PM

Holley Cow, with all that stuff, you should be looking at a wind generator or a solar wing...

Joel

Joel

Bike is stock, these are the standard items. I hate to think of the power consumption with lots of extras. The hack will have Headlight, Tail Light, Brake Light, Turn signal and Running lights as standard hence my concern with additional items. Not sure about removing right hand lights from bike due to new lights on Hack. I would think it confusing at night to see lights so close together on bike with the extra hack lights further outside the profile?

Yes, that would be a concern.....I would move the turn signal to the hack...and remove the bulbs from that side of the bike...I would also convert everything to LED light bulbs...that will save some...brake light and turn signals are not on all the time so that is not that much of a concern...just power loads that remain on all the time.... during the day you could switch off your headlight on the hack...that would help save.... I think if you made a list of all the load values...you will find that you will be fine....also consider how long you will be using electric vests, heated hand grips and loads like that.... on a long cold night....you could run out of power and drain your battery...might be bad... Is there a alternator upgrade that is available for your bike ? I know there are lots available for BMW bikes...just don't know much about other brands....

Joel

I don't ride much at night, and surely not all night.... I do run my vest and grips during the day... but have never had a problem...using a car battery gives me allot of reserve battery...

Joel

need to do a bit more research. Once I get the hack I will hook up a voltmeter and ride around to see what sort of load I get with just the additional hack lighting etc.

I am leaning towards a stand alone battery for the additional accessories (heated seat in the hack etc). If I connect a permanent maintenance Charger to the battery I would only have to plug it in when Im not riding the bike.

With this method I would not interfere with the bike system at all. This works providing it will handle the extra lights on the hack which should only amount to an extra headlight and tail light, the rest are only intermittant use

With the width of the hack most oncomers can mistake it for a truck with one headlight out.
I don't always remove or disconnect the right hand bike turn signal lights.
With some dual filiment lamps it's hard to eliminate the extra turn signal without also removing driving lights.
I'm running all lights on my current Harley rig.

Lonnie