Quote from Quick_Cal on November 23, 2022, 8:52 pm

I got my switch box cut out for the rocker switch. The tabs on the switch were too long and I had to cut them off. I'll just solder the wires on. I also made a face plate for it. Now I just need to mount it under the turn signal housing and wire it up.

Correct me if I'm wrong. But I THINK  the way I want it to work is if the rig is pulling to the right I want to extend the actuator which makes the bike lean to the left and track straight? Correct? So I want to push the left side of the switch?  Seems logical push the switch the direction you want to go,,,lol.

I actually got the car mounted to the bike today. I even rode it around the block. It's way out of alignment. I was hoping since it came off a Goldwing it would go right on. I have one bracket that's way off. I may just take it all apart and start over.

Oh ya. I did take my dog for a ride around my front yard. He had a blast. His tail was wagging like crazy the whole time. That right there made it all worth while even if I never ride it again.

Here's a short video if you care to watch. My stuff is not the prettiest. But good enough for me and my dog,,,lol.

https://youtu.be/EcvmzhYtU6o

 

 

 

Quote from DRONE on November 23, 2022, 10:28 pm

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 23, 2022, 8:52 pm

Correct me if I'm wrong. But I THINK  the way I want it to work is if the rig is pulling to the right I want to extend the actuator which makes the bike lean to the left and track straight? Correct? So I want to push the left side of the switch?  Seems logical push the switch the direction you want to go,,,lol.

Correctamundo!

Nice job on mounting that switch in the box.  And your dog looks like a natural, though I think the paint on the sidecar is gonna take a beating from those front claws!

Quote from DRONE on November 23, 2022, 10:40 pm

Once you get the struts to your liking, and do the setup, you still might find that the rig steers like a school bus with no power steering.  Most of us with Goldwing hacks have a front end modification to lighten the steering effort.  Not trying to rush things, just don't want to see you get discouraged if you find the steering requires too much oomph. 

Quote from SwampFox on November 24, 2022, 9:25 am

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 23, 2022, 8:52 pm

...got the car mounted to the bike ...way out of alignment.... may just take it all apart and start over.

Oh ya. I did take my dog for a ride around my front yard. He had a blast. His tail was wagging like crazy the whole time. That right there made it all worth while even if I never ride it again....

Off to a good start, Cal.  Hang in there re: alignment -- it took us several attempts and adjustments to align one of our rigs, including taking it apart and starting over.  Hope the dog continues to enjoy it -- pipe insulation around the cockpit may help help with the claws.  And Drone's comments re: steering are accurate.

Quote from smitty901 on November 24, 2022, 9:32 am

 Keep in mind some pull right when on the throttle is normal as is pull left when braking. Of course how much depend on how hard you roll on or brake.

You can save you self a lot of head ache by finding a good flat road to test it on when setting up so you are not chasing ghost caused by the road.

Get the TOE set each adjustment you make can effect others go slow with changes

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 24, 2022, 11:30 am

Thanks everyone!

The main issue I'm having right now is there's something not right with the rear mounting bracket.  I'm hoping it's user error on my part,,,lol. I will argue to my death that I installed it like the instructions said. I kept thinking this can't be right. And now looking at the sellers pics I can see it is not mounted the way he had it. This seller really saved my arse many times with his pics.

The problem is where the heim joint goes into the lower mount. The mount tabs are not perpendicular to the bike. They are angled back. This is making the heim joint way off and very hard to get in. This can't be right.  But I think I know what the problem is. ME!!

So I'm going to pull the body off and start over. I probably need to look the frame over anyway. What sucks is the 2 install manuals I have counter dict each other. Both are from CSC. The parts they call for are different, and some of what I have doesn't match. For instance the 1500 parts list says I should have short struts. I have the long ones. One  says I should have 45* clamps and bosses. The other says 70*.  I have 70*  stuff.

Ok. I gotta get this thing took apart,,,lol.

 

Quote from smitty901 on November 24, 2022, 11:48 am

IMO working with body off is the way to go at first. get things close. But never attempt to install with out a coffee cup level.

Direction you have may not even be for what you have.  Take you time it will come together.

 

 

 

 

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 24, 2022, 12:14 pm

Quote from FlyinMonkeys on November 24, 2022, 9:57 am

Calvin Watson, depending on where you live, I would be more than happy to assist you with installing a trail reducing triple trees onto your Goldwing 1500, and any mechanical things you may need to address or consider regarding that bike.

Have you previously owned THAT bike for some time, or is that bike a new acquisition ?  Have you owned a Goldwing 1500 before ?

I have installed trail reducing triple trees on Goldwings in the recent past, and they came out perfectly...makes a huge difference in how the bike steers.

And I am very knowledgeable about the Honda Goldwing, so don't hesitate to ask questions, or bounce thoughts off me.

So, young Calvin, where do you live ?  Is you dogs' name...Hobbs ?

Oh, and a Happy Thanksgiving, or Happy Holidays, to one and all.

Ok. Here goes!!

I'm in the Metro St. Louis area. Where are you? And thanks for the offer to help. I may need it on this sidecar,,,lol. Triple trees are a looong way off though.

I've had this 1500 for a couple of years. I bought it non running for $500. It had some small wires burned up do to the po's work. I cut out the burned up wires and spliced in new one's. Then I fixed the original problem the guy was having. It started right up. I'm slowly going through it. I've rebuilt the air shock, brake caliper, new forks, and put on new tire's. Still lots to do. Rebuilding the carbs and master cylinders is high on the list.

I've rebuilt several motorcycles. I went through 2 1200 Goldwings. I restored a 73 Yamaha TX750. I loved that bike. Wished I still had it.  And I've been restoring a 72 Yamaha XS650 for about the last 15 years,,,lol. Finally moved it out of the spare bedroom into the garage last year. Been working on a 72 Honda Z50 for about 6 years now,,,lol.

Can you see a pattern. I start projects but never seem to finish. But this sidecar is for my dog. He truly is the only reason I got it.  He HAS to go on the road with me. 

I'm 62. I beat cancer about 6 years ago. But the chemo messed my head up. I struggle with some of the simplest things. That's why I have such a hard time with some electrical stuff. I'm not as sharp as I used to be,,,lol. I'm now on disability and can't work. So I have lots of time for projects.

My goal in life is to travel the country on my Goldwing pulling my trailer. Now with this sidecar I can take my best bud with me.

Oh ya. My dogs name is Wilton. I have an old Wilton vise. I always said if I ever had another kid or dog, I would name him Wilton. But everyone calls him Willy. I might have to change his name to "Sidecar Willy".

I like making videos of my projects. You guys should check out my youtube channel. I work on all kinds of stuff. It's called "Quick Cals Garage".

 

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 24, 2022, 12:29 pm

Here's a video of when I first got this Goldwing and got it running.

https://youtu.be/ym6p36kHfTo

Quote from DRONE on November 24, 2022, 2:43 pm

I think the main reason that sidecar makers use heim joints instead of fixed bar ends is because they do provide a bit of "fudge factor" when things don't line up perfectly.  I've had rigs with heims that were as wonky as the one in your pic and they seemed to work OK.  Obviously, fixed ends will be more rigid than heims.  But for now I think you're fine just lining things up as good as you can then making sure that you torque the hell out of those mounting bolts.  (I torque mine as tight as I can get them with an ordinary box wrench -- with no cheater bar).

It's also a good idea to tighten the jam nut on the heim bar ends.  No need to torque the hell out of them -- the jam nuts just need put tension on the threads.

Quote from smitty901 on November 24, 2022, 5:05 pm

While working on it use the bolts you have. When it is right swap in New nuts and bolts.

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 24, 2022, 5:18 pm

The frame was out of level about 1/2'' side to side and about 2'' difference front to rear, down in the front. The manual says 1'' difference is acceptable.

What should I set the psi in my rear air shock to? I never ride 2 up. I need to find about 200 pounds of weight to sit on the bike,,,lol.

Quote from smitty901 on November 24, 2022, 8:46 pm

 For now focus on getting it setup for what you intend to use it for. If just the dog than that is the only extra weight to focus on now.

If bike has an air shock for now use a bathroom scale to get an close idea of the added weight to the bike and go with that.

You will adjust it more latter for now get it close. Get the wheel off set where  it needs to be . Get the height as close as you can.

get toe close. Once this is done step back and look at it. See what needs to be improved.

 

Quote from smitty901 on November 25, 2022, 11:32 am

 IMO when mounting the sidecar in last picture I posted. Making the 2x6 jig was worth it. I had to make the mounts for the bike.  With bike locked down and sidecar on the boards I was able to move it at will allow me to measure and check positions over and over.

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 25, 2022, 11:42 am

Quote from FlyinMonkeys on November 24, 2022, 11:42 pm

Calvin & Hobbs...aka Sidecar Willy....if you plan to keep this Goldwing 1500, I would remove that singular air shock on the rear of the bike, and the singular spring shock on the other side of the rear of the bike, throw them away, and install a matched set of Progressive Suspension rear shocks. They will be a spring shock...and NO air assist at all. One of the failures of that model of Goldwing, was that Mother Honda used an AIR shock on ONE side of the rear suspension, and used a Spring shock on the other side of the rear suspension. It is really noticeable as a 2 wheeled bike, in high speed sweepers, where the rear suspension causes the bike to wallow in high speed curves.

Follow all the instructions that others here are giving you for alignment of the sidecar frame to the bike.....but at some point you are going to want (more than need) to address the inadequate suspension on that bike. A matched set of Progressive Suspension rear shocks, and a heavier set of Front fork springs, with a 10w to 15w fork oil, and the trail reducing triple trees, and the bike will be set up right for sidecar use.

I live too far away from you to be of any hands-on mechanical help, as you live in the state of Misery, and I live in The Great Pacific NorthWET, in the state with the most sidecar owners per capita...Washington.

How many MILES are on that bike now ???  Have you ever replaced the Timing Belts/Cam Belts on that bike's engine ?

It is important, so please don't ignore the question. That is an interference engine, so if one of those rubber timing belts/cam belts break, you just lunched an engine.

I would love to do all the suspension upgrades, and triple trees. But I'm just a broke old fart on a fixed income. Don't really have a lot of cash to play with.

The bike has 69,000 miles on it. I know I need to do the timing belts sooner than later. Have you seen where they upgrade the pulley to a more modern one that will last, and don't get noisy like the honda ones?   That's what I want to do when I do it.

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 25, 2022, 11:58 am

Still would like to know how much air I should put in the shock? The air shock was blown when I git the bike. It wasn't bad to ride. So I rebuilt the shock. I've been putting 40psi in it. I think I'll just leave it there unless you guys recommend something different.

Any guesses what just the body weighs. I want to add that weight to the frame while I'm setting up. I'm also going to add 100 pounds like it says to do on the serial number tag if riding solo.

Right now I have 2 shelf bracket rails bolted together that I have bungee corded to the wheel. It's nice and straight.

Quote from DRONE on November 25, 2022, 12:53 pm

Can't help you on the air shock question.

Your bungie corded rail is the way I do setups so of course I think that's a great way to do it.  Assuming of course you have another one to attach to the rear tire of the bike.

On the weight of the body, I see in your pic you have a bathroom scale there. First weigh yourself.  Then take the body and toss it up on one shoulder and hold it there then get back on the scale.  The difference is how much the body weighs.

Too bad this forum doesn't have any "rolling on the floor laughing" ROFL emojis. LOL

But seriously, here are the original specs for your car.  Based on these, I'd guess the tub alone without the wheel and frame would be around 100 lbs.

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 25, 2022, 7:08 pm

Quote from FlyinMonkeys on November 25, 2022, 6:06 pm

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 25, 2022, 11:42 am

Quote from FlyinMonkeys on November 24, 2022, 11:42 pm

Calvin & Hobbs...aka Sidecar Willy....if you plan to keep this Goldwing 1500, I would remove that singular air shock on the rear of the bike, and the singular spring shock on the other side of the rear of the bike, throw them away, and install a matched set of Progressive Suspension rear shocks. They will be a spring shock...and NO air assist at all. One of the failures of that model of Goldwing, was that Mother Honda used an AIR shock on ONE side of the rear suspension, and used a Spring shock on the other side of the rear suspension. It is really noticeable as a 2 wheeled bike, in high speed sweepers, where the rear suspension causes the bike to wallow in high speed curves.

Follow all the instructions that others here are giving you for alignment of the sidecar frame to the bike.....but at some point you are going to want (more than need) to address the inadequate suspension on that bike. A matched set of Progressive Suspension rear shocks, and a heavier set of Front fork springs, with a 10w to 15w fork oil, and the trail reducing triple trees, and the bike will be set up right for sidecar use.

I live too far away from you to be of any hands-on mechanical help, as you live in the state of Misery, and I live in The Great Pacific NorthWET, in the state with the most sidecar owners per capita...Washington.

How many MILES are on that bike now ???  Have you ever replaced the Timing Belts/Cam Belts on that bike's engine ?

It is important, so please don't ignore the question. That is an interference engine, so if one of those rubber timing belts/cam belts break, you just lunched an engine.

I would love to do all the suspension upgrades, and triple trees. But I'm just a broke old fart on a fixed income. Don't really have a lot of cash to play with.

The bike has 69,000 miles on it. I know I need to do the timing belts sooner than later. Have you seen where they upgrade the pulley to a more modern one that will last, and don't get noisy like the honda ones?   That's what I want to do when I do it.

Calvin, the LEAST expensive thing you can do, is to assure that the engine on that bike doesn't smash valves into the pistons. Again, that is an interference engine, so if one or both of those rubber timing belts/cam belts breaks, you will have a major top end overhaul that needs to be done.

In my world, the mechanical condition of the motorcycle, or TUG, takes precedence over mounting the sidecar to the Tug, because mechanical things are easier to do on the 2 wheeled bike, than on a sidecar rig....easier to get to both sides of the bikes, etc....and "IF" for some reason you discover that the bike/Tug has a major mechanical issue that deems it not worth fixing, then adding the sidecar first is just a waste of time.

Bottom line, and then I leave you to your own devices....for an HOUR of time, and less than $ 50.00 (low end) or up to a max of $ 100.00 (high end) you can make sure that engine doesn't get ruined.  In most cases, the tensioner pulley doesn't need to be replaced when doing timing belts/cam belts. If that tensioner pulley is already making noise, screeching at you, then by all means replace it. 

But understand...it is not just the 69k miles on those belts....it is also 30+ years of time, age, cold and heat...it is the YEARS that cause more wear and tear on those rubber belts, than just the 69k miles.

Unless you can verify through paperwork that at some point in the past 10 years that those rubber belts have been replaced....personally I would not even start the engine without replacing them. Yeah, I know, you have already driven it around, and it hasn't blown up...YET ! There is the key to the entire thing....YET ! For less than $ 100.00 (max) and one hour of time, you could have some peace of mind knowing the engine will not blow up.

Just wondering if you are on any of the Goldwing forums?

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 26, 2022, 11:09 am

This rear bracket is kicking my butt. Because the tabs are angled back so far where the lower bolt goes through, it is making it difficult to get my toe in set correctly. I've got it set to 3/4''. The instructions call for 1''- 1-1/4''. It's easier if I pull the front way out away from the bike then install the rear heim joint. Then move the front back in towards the bike to bolt up and set toe in. The problem is if I push too far in I can see the rear bracket start to flex and I have to push pretty hard. Seems like this is binding things up and putting stress on things. Just doesn't seem right to me. But I could be wrong. Is this just what it takes?

I don't see any damage where it looks like the mount was hit by something. Nothing looks bent. Just those tabs are angled back. There are gussets on them so it looks like it was made that way.

 

The installation instructions I have say they are for a 88-93 1500. I just figured that's when they were printed. But in fact this mount came of a 95 1500. Would it have used a different mount maybe?  I'm going to post a new thread asking for a pic of this mount. Or you guys can reply here. Just figure I'll get more people seeing a new thread.

 

This may or may not be an issue. It says I'm supposed to have 58+ inches track width. I can only get 57'' due to the rear 70* angle clamp being rusted in place. I tried turning it with a pipe wrench and it won't budge. I've read not to lube these or they will slip. But if you guys think I need to hit that 58'' I'll just have to use some pb blaster on it and try to free it up. Or should I just leave it?

I'm thinking I should try it with the toe the way it is and see how it does. If it needs more toe in then I need to figure something else.

Please advise. Thanks