Hello all,
I'm 74 and combat disabled, my balance has gotten so bad I don't trust myself on two wheels anymore. Yet having ridden for 60 years I need to continue. I purchased a 71 R60/5 with a 70s Ural hack attached needing lots of work. I spent all winter fixing both the bike and the Ural. My question is on set up, I have read everywhere that you level the hacks rear tube to the bike, well when that is level the sidecar wheel is out of plumb. Wouldn't it be better to have the sidecar wheel plumb, and the lean out on the bikes rear tire as usual?
Thanks much, Wayne
Wayne
I can't help with your technical question, but there are others who can- some may live near you. If you add your location, you may get more help, quicker.
just a suggestion.
Duncan
Here is a link to how we align sidecars Basic Sidecar Installation Instructions | DMC Sidecars on our video page www.dmcsidecars.com/video as well as on our facebook page DMC Sidecars LLC (facebook.com) there are video's showing how to install and align a sidecar.
Depending on how the sidecar was installed it may not be possible to get everything exact. The front lower mount from the factory on the Ural is fixed as such if this mount is used the location on the bike must be exactly correct as you can not change wheel lead or how high off of the ground the mount sets, important for making sure that the sidecar wheel sits vertical. As the /5 frame tubing is very thin you can not simply clamp a sidecar to it and expect the frame to hold up. Many people have made a bar up that pick up both of the lower engine mounting bolts and has the ball fittings on them for the sidecar to attach. We do things different, we make a front and rear sub frame for the bike that gives you all 4 attachment points. We then cut off the lower front mount from the sidecar frame and weld in a pinch tube similar to what is on the rear. We also weld a new pinch tube for the rear mount further forward as the standard one is to far aft. Then on the lower mounts we use a "boss and clamp" fully adjustable mounting system so that the wheel lead can be set correct, sidecar level for and aft and side to side and should changes be needed down the road it can all be adjusted.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
866-638-1793
www.dmcsidecars.com
Monday - Thursday 6-4:30
Hello Jay
I want to thank you for taking the time to reply with your knowledge. Being new here I'll try to post photos of what I bought two years ago. I bought a rig that came out an estate in Ca. The price was right even with the cross country shipping, but I knew it needed much work. I have always bought stuff that needed work because of my budget, this way I could spend as I had it. I was lucky that I got into a trade that taught me so much I needed with my hobbies. Old motorcycles and cars were my passion and I was already a decent wrench before the Army, the trade of being a pipe fitter and certified welder really helped. The neighbor saw I was handy and said I had to get a lathe (he was head Lathe operator at Grumman aircraft). He taught me to think in .0001 instead of 1/16". My spinal cord damage caused a slow and steady lose of balance so the sidecar is my salvation. Getting back to the rig, whomever owned it wanted it to look like a German WWII sidecar rig and did a piss poor job of that to boot. What does look right is the steel added for the attachment points. As you mentioned the flat 1/2 bar stock catching the engine bolts and catching the old passenger peg location. For the struts the bar stock was welded to both sides. That welding looked strong enough to my eye. I'm sure someone that knew sidecars did that work. After getting it running and new tires I put 95 miles on it last summer to shake out the problems, and they were many. This what I took care of last winter; Tug -Ring and valve job, new swing arm bearings, total rebuild of the forks, and rebuilding the carbs. Car- it actually had a bent axle and the arm that held it, bought a new one from the Ukraine and new sets of bearings and spokes for both wheels. Now I'm ready mechanically to put some miles on the rig, I just need to get it aligned right and the weather to improve. You are right Duncan, I'm on Long Island NY.
Thank you again, Wayne
Nice Wayne. So you are also a burned out Pipe Fighter.
How well does that airhead pull the Ural and what is your steering like when getting into City type left and right handers. How much lead does your sidecar wheel have on your back axle. If you want to go with electric reverse and camber trim I can send you sketches of how I did it and it really works. I am going to go from a drum brake on the car to a disc mag wheel so I will be discarding the hydraulic brake operator and bracket for a caliper. If you want it I will give it to you The reverse and trim are also not rocket science and economical to fabricate. We need to trade emails and we can share experiences building our rigs up. later Chuck
That is some good advice Jay. If I alter the lead on my rig I will do it the way you suggest. I found the rear mount very far back too and I like the idea of moving it forward on the car frame. My front mount is already attached to the bottom of the front engine mount so that is easy to modify. If I move the rear car mount forward . How much did you move the mount forward?? I will put a tubular cross member across the car frame at that point and clad the frame tube as like you say its thin. I would use a U shaped cladding that would extend to the crossmember to carry the load Chuck
Thanks for your input Chuck, how would I get you my email? That electric reverse sounds interesting and I would like the sketches. As far as brakes on the car I would have to try and find the brake itself that would work with my wheel.
Wayne
Good to hear from you Wayne. My email is acwi@hotmail.com, That cylinder etc is for a drum brake and that is a Ural car you have so it should have a drum brake wheel. If not when I convert to the Mag wheel and Disc brake on my car You are welcome to my old wheel etc. the reverse is a very simple arrangement using a dump truck tarp drive motor on a sliding mount so I can bring a spur wheel to the sidecar tire and drive that. Its also a good parking brake and I use a sqawker so I do not try to drive off with it engaged.. It only goes 1 ft per sec but it beats trying to push that heavy sucker backwards. The drive develops 1 1/2 hp and only pulls about 10 amps with my rig which goes about 1100 lbs loaded. I power it via a relay and a small button on the right handle bar. I am using an over center rod system for engagement but I am going to go to a cable
Later Bro chuck
