Skip to content

USCA Sidecar Forum

For some extra information about navigating the forum you can go to Forum Tips

Please to create posts and topics.

Short windshield

Looking through the photo albums I see several Velorex sidecars with much shorter windshields than stock. Are these shorter shields available as an option or are people cutting the stock shield? I imagine they could be cut down just like a motorcycle shield. Thanks in advance for any info.

Mine is a 700 Velorex. If I were to cut the windshield, there would not be enough headroom with the top installed, and the top would have to be re-done to fit the shorter windshield. For other units that do not have
a high back and top, cut it off. The areo drag will still go over the passenger unless too short and will reduce wind resistance. If you mess it up go to hardware store and get another piece, and use the old one as a pattern. I cut my Windjammer "barndoor" windshield down by 4 1/2 inches and rounded the top a bit. Use a band saw! Cut slowly. Tape/cover both sides of the lexan before cutting to reduce scratching. Use a bastard file to smoothe out irregularities and round the edges. Lexan/plexiglass will split similarly to glass if stressed at the edge or inside a hole. When drilling beware of bit siezure which will also cause a split or crack. To end/stop a crack, drill a 1/16 hole at the end of the crack to relieve the stress. I use Rain-X on mine to help keep it clear and easy to wash.............So, why do you want to cut it?

Originally written by Jon on 4/8/2007 9:54 AM

Mine is a 700 Velorex. If I were to cut the windshield, there would not be enough headroom with the top installed, and the top would have to be re-done to fit the shorter windshield. For other units that do not have
a high back and top, cut it off. The areo drag will still go over the passenger unless too short and will reduce wind resistance. If you mess it up go to hardware store and get another piece, and use the old one as a pattern. I cut my Windjammer "barndoor" windshield down by 4 1/2 inches and rounded the top a bit. Use a band saw! Cut slowly. Tape/cover both sides of the lexan before cutting to reduce scratching. Use a bastard file to smoothe out irregularities and round the edges. Lexan/plexiglass will split similarly to glass if stressed at the edge or inside a hole. When drilling beware of bit siezure which will also cause a split or crack. To end/stop a crack, drill a 1/16 hole at the end of the crack to relieve the stress. I use Rain-X on mine to help keep it clear and easy to wash.............So, why do you want to cut it?

I need to add to this...Lexan WONT split when drilling, but round the hole edges off a little to reduce stress.
also. the WS can be cut ON the bike using a hand held jigsaw[sabersaw] and fine tooth blade. I have cut many this way. including my stock windjammer shield.
I put a wide band of masking tape or duct tape on the shield at least 2" beyond the cut, draw the line and cut away...use file to touch up like it was stated, then 300 or 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper to polish the edge. you can also polish further using auto rubbing compound.

Hey there, Bob. My old PC died and I lost ALL data..your address. The vibration and possible blade sticking is why I do not use sabre saw on plastics. The heat , ya know. Same with drilling holes.

I did a post on earls fork today.

Originally written by Jon on 4/8/2007 11:32 AM

Hey there, Bob. My old PC died and I lost ALL data..your address. The vibration and possible blade sticking is why I do not use sabre saw on plastics. The heat , ya know. Same with drilling holes.

I did a post on earls fork today.

yeah, i know the band saw is smoother and safer. i am able to control the saber saw OK on the bike with no problems..medium speed and dont stop.
I cut a lot of lexan, with my band saw when possible, with a 1/2" blade..nice and smooth.

I also usually use a jigsaw (sabresaw) and, yes, some melting happens but it is in the cut and not a real issue. Sometimes you can run the blade in one spot a little more until the melted portion is no longer is an issue. What I mean by that is that if the melted part is still in the joint it will weld itself back together.Some will and some won't but it is not a problem really. If you are leary of this you can cut on the scrap side of the line a little ways and then sand back to it. A belt sander will work very well to give a nice straight edge and can be run around corners easily if the windshield is not mounted.
Do not over tighten mounting bolts and do chamfer edges as Bob mentioned. It is also a good idea to drill th emountig holes alittle larger than required if doing a new windscreen.
DO NOT use plexiglass or an acrylic. Use Lexan or anither brand of Polycarbonate. Scraps of thsi may be had at a plastics supplier if one can be located to reduce costs.
If just cutting an exisiting part some of this will not apply.
In any case you can always do a practice cut to get a feel for this. It is really a simple operation.

Jon wrote:
>> Lexan/plexiglass will split similarly to glass if stressed at the edge or inside a hole. <<

Just to clear the air it shoud be said that Lexan and Plexiglass are not th esame product. Lexan is one brand name for a polycarbonate. Plexiglass is a brand name for an acrylic. Big difference. Plexiglass will break quite easily and lexan will not. Lexan can be bent cold in a sheet metal brake. It is used for bullet proof 'glass' in some cases. It has been used as air dams on the bottom edge of race cars that may contact th etrack surface from time to time. Yes, it can break but is much mich diferen tthan plexiglass. DO NOT USE PLEXIGLASS unless you want to do th ejob over mroe often. Typically Lexan will not be avaiable at hardware stores but can be had online or at a plastic supply house.When asking for Lexan you may find it is not in stock..then ask for a ploycaorbonate and you may get one of a coupel of other brands. Sometimes the one on the other end of the line when doing an inquirey may be more up on things than other times to put it in a nice way.

It's easy to use flat 1/8" stock for the Velorex 562 & 563 models with the lower mouldings.
Why chop up a $100.00 + windshield instead?
I use wide masking tape to protect the plastic from scratching, mark the shape with a Sharpie marker and use a jigsaw with wood blade. Works just like "lectric".
The rounded edge looks quite finished with a piece of chrome/plastic door edge molding.

Attached files

Thanks for all the info. I did pick up a piece of Lexan and cut it with a sabre saw with a "wood" blade. No problem at all. Drilled the mounting holes and bolted it up. Looks good and I still have the original in case I need to change it back. Thanks again for the help. I hope to meet some of you folks at the rally in June. Allen

On my smoked lexan screen, I used some windscreen trim from cyclegear.com.

http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=MRX_WT1_G&tier2=14

Looks great and the fit is very tight. You can see it in my user profile photo.

Gary

For what it's worth, NEVER use Rain X on Honda Shields, they have a very thin plastic laminate to the outside that will go to hell in a heart beat, after market shield's don't have this, why Honda does is unknown.

Ted