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right turns

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Tell us where you live. There may be members near you who can provide advice/training.

Best thing you can do for your, your rig's, and the general public's safety is take the S/TEP class. Then practice what they teach. Classes are available in Florida; not sure about PA - you might ask Claude Stanley

Just sayin'


2011 R1200GS + EML CT2001

I've been riding a sidecar rig for about a month, also. Today I finished the S/TEP in Lufkin, TX. Take it. Marcus will have you flying the wheel - it's part of the class - everybody get to do it.
I practiced the right turns on the East Texas back roads coming home from the class.

Later, Bud...

Ya know, I've heard it said that you have an "level" on the bike, it will help with the ride. What I mean is that if I have a level (think RV) on the bike/car, then you might have a more stable ride. Anyone heard of this?

captdan - 6/26/2017 8:13 AM
I am very new to sidecar driving, about a month, and am still a little scared of the right twisties in Pa. I have 50 lbs of ballast weight in the sidecar and have not lifted it so far, but they still have me worried. I have been reading all sorts of articles on the subject on what to do if the wheel lifts, but still am not sure if i really understand what to do. Can any of you tell me what is the proper thing to do and counteract if this ever happens? I know one of these days it will happen and i want to do the right thing and not cause serious harm to me or the bike, so give me all the info i will need to be prepared.

I am what I consider a 'newbie' and have a few hundred miles on the rig. That car looks about the same, maybe a bit heavier than my Velorex. The Heritage is the bike I had that I decided not to put it on. The Shadow is lighter. My sidecar, I am convinced but need mods before I reattach it and find out for sure, is much too light for the Shadow. Yours, if it is comparable, is even lighter for the Softail. I had the same problems you are encountering. I have calculated I need a MINIMUM of an extra 100# of ballast, on top of what everyone else uses. I tried lifting a Ural sidecar yesterday, it was at about the limit of my one-handed lift (without straining or going overboard, I'm talking sensible not showing off). I can do bicep curls with my sidecar, it weighs at best, half as much at the wheel. Considering the bike itself is considerably heavier, and the sidecar is probably a tad bit lighter, I'd expect it to be about the same. This means, as Jay mentioned, it's underweight and probably set too close. I set it as close as I could, on purpose, to pass through a specific barrier at work designed to allow motorcycles but not cars. I might rethink that and park the rig in cager parking, but first the mods need to be done & the car re-mounted.

Wingnut - 7/5/2017 1:43 AM
Ya know, I've heard it said that you have an "level" on the bike, it will help with the ride. What I mean is that if I have a level (think RV) on the bike/car, then you might have a more stable ride. Anyone heard of this?

As in, a bubble level to tell when you're leaning? Interesting idea, but not real sure it matters. I can tell pretty well where level is, I just had it on the RV for when I park it, not for driving. They don't seem like they'd respond quickly enough to matter, IMO, but never tried it. (And I have watched them while driving the RV, so I do have an idea how quickly they respond.) Anything drastic enough to be useful, and you already know you're off-level. Anything you might need it for, might be the last you hit instead of the current one.

I have tilt control on my Hannigan sidecar (adjusts the sidecar shock up and down). This helps level the rig with different loads and on cambered roads. Leaning the rig a little to the right helps prevent flying the chair.

Leaning the bike into the sidecar to keep the sidecar down while it does work by transferring some of the weight of the bike onto the sidecar this is not what it was intended for. If you are leaning the bike into the sidecar to keep the sidecar down then you are also choosing to run the rig out of alignment. Tilt was not intended to be used to transfer weight for cornering, it is intended as a trim device to trim for load, road, weather and speed conditions. If you feel that when the is trimmed to go straight down the road properly that the sidecar wants to lift to easy then you should be either adding ballast or increasing track width. Ballast is a lot simpler then changing track width. You can also transfer some of your own weight when turning to the right as out lined in the book "Driving a sidecar outfit" by David Hough. It is also covered in the sidecar trike safety programs classes S/tep. As a S/tep instructor I teach proper cornering techniques in class. If you are relying on the tilt for cornering to the right, what happens some day when you are heading into a right hand turn, needing the weight transfer to go around the corner safely and you find that the electric trim for what ever reason fails to work?
In short, using electric trim to keep the sidecar down on right hand turns is a poor choice.
Jay G
DMC sidecars

Jay G DMC sidecars 15616 Carbonado South Prairie RD Buckley WA 98321 866-638-1793 Hours Monday - Thursday 6-4:30

Load your front wheel a little at first till you get fell.( appling the front brake a small amount) . And just steer with your left hand, so you have good trotted control with your right hand with a high torque engine( down shift tight curves) plus the weight shift on the side car. You get that then we can talk about torque the Handel bars.Rudy

I forgot the most important part, to do a right turn always go in high (on the center line) go to inside( shoulder of road) then back to the high side coming out of the curve now on wide sweeping 180 deg. Might need to do this twice.Rudy

People you my thinkI’m a little crazy for what I telling but think what I’ve said. like going into a right hand curve high then low when you or to the inside of the curve(fast or slow) you or set up for that curve you have 2 finger on the front brake with a small amount of pressure applied a foot resting by rear brake peddling (no aplied yet) you have geared down so you have power
for coming out of the curve and you did slow the bike down some. And also if the of the sidecar comes up you’ve got the whole lane you can turn to left to bring it down with out getting into on coming traffic. Also you can appli front and rear brake as need. And because you had down shifted be for the curve you got power to come out of the curve. The speed that all this has happed is up to you. But don’t over ride your skill but learn for each curve.Rudy

I think you're saying, start on the outside of the curve, inside at the 'zenith', and back to outside as you exit the curve...? Right? Pretty much just like they used to teach in 2W motorcycle class, but don't do that anymore.

I appreciate the info! You're like me, sometimes I put too much and it confuses people.

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