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How much to repaint a sidecar?
Quote from senorcosta on December 9, 2010, 9:47 amHi all
Thanks for your patience with all my noobie questions. I took my Velorex apart to clean up, look at everything and make sure nothing was missing or rusted, etc. I want to paint the tub and fender the same as my 1989 Honda Pacific Coast (Pearl Pacific White - Honda color code NH-251P). I have an estimate of $500 +/- from one guy. I will keep looking, but does this sound about right? In my mind, I thought it would be $200-300. Mind you, I'm in NJ, so nothing is "cheap". We do have a MAACO here, but I hear bad things about those places. Also, is there anything specific I should know about painting to keep my eye on?
Thanks for your help!
PS By the way, its black now. I don't know if it's more to go from a dark color to a lighter one
Hi all
Thanks for your patience with all my noobie questions. I took my Velorex apart to clean up, look at everything and make sure nothing was missing or rusted, etc. I want to paint the tub and fender the same as my 1989 Honda Pacific Coast (Pearl Pacific White - Honda color code NH-251P). I have an estimate of $500 +/- from one guy. I will keep looking, but does this sound about right? In my mind, I thought it would be $200-300. Mind you, I'm in NJ, so nothing is "cheap". We do have a MAACO here, but I hear bad things about those places. Also, is there anything specific I should know about painting to keep my eye on?
Thanks for your help!
PS By the way, its black now. I don't know if it's more to go from a dark color to a lighter one
Quote from Guest on December 9, 2010, 10:37 ami'd say that sounds pretty cheap, the paint and materials alone cost me close to $300 for my rig
i'd say that sounds pretty cheap, the paint and materials alone cost me close to $300 for my rig
Quote from Peter Pan on December 9, 2010, 11:18 amGus,
as said the paint is very expensive so there is little left over for workmanship. Remember you get what you pay for.The Velorex lower half is very flimsy material, I'd only paint the upper half, before the lower half will fill with cracks all over.
On my velorex everything changed for better since the day I had a new lower bowl made out of fibre glass, but left it black anyway.
Regrads
Sven
Gus,
as said the paint is very expensive so there is little left over for workmanship. Remember you get what you pay for.
The Velorex lower half is very flimsy material, I'd only paint the upper half, before the lower half will fill with cracks all over.
On my velorex everything changed for better since the day I had a new lower bowl made out of fibre glass, but left it black anyway.
Regrads
Sven
Quote from senorcosta on December 9, 2010, 11:59 amOK. Great advice guys. Thanks!
OK. Great advice guys. Thanks!
Quote from Hack__n on December 9, 2010, 12:20 pmHere's how I matched a 562E with a '96 Kaw KZ1000P. No chips show up with the black lower and it looks good without the extra work.
Lonnie
Here's how I matched a 562E with a '96 Kaw KZ1000P. No chips show up with the black lower and it looks good without the extra work.
Lonnie
Quote from senorcosta on December 9, 2010, 1:41 pmLonnie I had no plans to paint the bottom, only the top and the fender. Thanks for the pics. This reaffirms that its the right decision. Looks great!
Attached is a pic of what it will look like from the www.VelorexUsa.com website
Lonnie I had no plans to paint the bottom, only the top and the fender. Thanks for the pics. This reaffirms that its the right decision. Looks great!
Attached is a pic of what it will look like from the http://www.VelorexUsa.com website
Quote from Guest on December 9, 2010, 2:07 pmThat price isn't all that bad, I wanted to paint my rig to match the bike, but thanks to Harley they only made my color combo for two months.......lol.....great. Golden glow/black glow, I had the hardest time trying to find paint that matched, no help from MOCO and to this day no one can match the black glow with has red a green metal flake in the paint. So with three different painter asking anthing from 750 - 2100 I am going the cheap skate route and paint the entire rig in Duraliner........bring on the rocks and such......but to each his own. Yes I would love the high dollar paint job but with the bed liner paint touch up will be a breeze and no waxing.....I would rather ride than polish.
That price isn't all that bad, I wanted to paint my rig to match the bike, but thanks to Harley they only made my color combo for two months.......lol.....great. Golden glow/black glow, I had the hardest time trying to find paint that matched, no help from MOCO and to this day no one can match the black glow with has red a green metal flake in the paint. So with three different painter asking anthing from 750 - 2100 I am going the cheap skate route and paint the entire rig in Duraliner........bring on the rocks and such......but to each his own. Yes I would love the high dollar paint job but with the bed liner paint touch up will be a breeze and no waxing.....I would rather ride than polish.
Quote from VLAD on December 9, 2010, 5:29 pm7 years ago I paid $650 to paint my Frendship III. Just for paint. I did take it apart and reassemble myself. Stay avay from maaco. You will not like finished product. As an idea how about paint some white on sidecar and some black on the bike? Or some decals(spelling? )
7 years ago I paid $650 to paint my Frendship III. Just for paint. I did take it apart and reassemble myself. Stay avay from maaco. You will not like finished product. As an idea how about paint some white on sidecar and some black on the bike? Or some decals(spelling? )
Quote from Guest on December 10, 2010, 12:37 amHannigan factory paint to match my LT was $850. Two tone and it is a perfect match for color and an excellent job.
Loren
Hannigan factory paint to match my LT was $850. Two tone and it is a perfect match for color and an excellent job.
Loren
Quote from SidecarMike on December 10, 2010, 11:14 amYou are approaching the right time of year to do this. I had a number of estimates of $1200-$1600 to paint my Motorvation. One shop, well known for its custom paintwork rather than crash repair, said that if I was willing to wait until late January though early March, they would do it for $500. That was for a tutone black/metallic grey with red pinstriping. He said he would rather lose money to keep his painters busy, than layoff and take the chance of one of them going somewhere else before spring.
You are approaching the right time of year to do this. I had a number of estimates of $1200-$1600 to paint my Motorvation. One shop, well known for its custom paintwork rather than crash repair, said that if I was willing to wait until late January though early March, they would do it for $500. That was for a tutone black/metallic grey with red pinstriping. He said he would rather lose money to keep his painters busy, than layoff and take the chance of one of them going somewhere else before spring.
Quote from Deleted user on December 10, 2010, 11:48 amI had 3 different hacks painted. The price was $400 each. After each was done,the painter said he would never do another,but he always does when I bring him another. J.R.
I had 3 different hacks painted. The price was $400 each. After each was done,the painter said he would never do another,but he always does when I bring him another. J.R.
Quote from gnm109 on December 11, 2010, 2:32 amhoovstar - 12/9/2010 7:37 AM
i'd say that sounds pretty cheap, the paint and materials alone cost me close to $300 for my rig
That's correct. I used to paint Harley-Davidson motorcycles from time to time. Even as long ago as ten years, just the materials were running $300. They are so expensive now that I seldom do any painting anymore. (I have my own powdercoating oven now but it will only do metal.)
A few years ago, I had a replacement rear view mirror painted at a body shop to match the rest of my Gold Wing and since I didn't think it would cost very much, I foolishly failed to ask the price before I had it done. The price? $100. I found out that was the minimum. Needless to say, I never went back there.
Modernly, with the advent of new-style low-volatility paints and the typical need for clear coat, you've got consumables such as filters, sandpaper, rubbing compounds, two part primer, two part base, two part clear coat and then there's labor. $500 would be on the low end. If there is a two tone involved or any striping, you would be looking at much more.
hoovstar - 12/9/2010 7:37 AM
i'd say that sounds pretty cheap, the paint and materials alone cost me close to $300 for my rig
That's correct. I used to paint Harley-Davidson motorcycles from time to time. Even as long ago as ten years, just the materials were running $300. They are so expensive now that I seldom do any painting anymore. (I have my own powdercoating oven now but it will only do metal.)
A few years ago, I had a replacement rear view mirror painted at a body shop to match the rest of my Gold Wing and since I didn't think it would cost very much, I foolishly failed to ask the price before I had it done. The price? $100. I found out that was the minimum. Needless to say, I never went back there.
Modernly, with the advent of new-style low-volatility paints and the typical need for clear coat, you've got consumables such as filters, sandpaper, rubbing compounds, two part primer, two part base, two part clear coat and then there's labor. $500 would be on the low end. If there is a two tone involved or any striping, you would be looking at much more.
Quote from Guest on December 11, 2010, 8:36 amthat is a perfect match to my first rig,..I was with a company in Hamilton Ontario escorting funeral services through town,..when the snow hit,..we hack'd em,..thanks for the memory Lonnie,..hehe crawf
that is a perfect match to my first rig,..I was with a company in Hamilton Ontario escorting funeral services through town,..when the snow hit,..we hack'd em,..thanks for the memory Lonnie,..hehe crawf
Quote from senorcosta on December 13, 2010, 7:39 pmBrought the hack to the painter. He stuck to his guns and its getting painted for $500. He's painting the top and fender with factory Honda paint and also painting the bottom black that's chip resistant. I can live with that especially once I found out how much paint costs. I should have it back by mid-Jan. I'll keep you all posted
Brought the hack to the painter. He stuck to his guns and its getting painted for $500. He's painting the top and fender with factory Honda paint and also painting the bottom black that's chip resistant. I can live with that especially once I found out how much paint costs. I should have it back by mid-Jan. I'll keep you all posted
Quote from Dundertaker on December 30, 2010, 6:00 pmI just paid $1,000K in TN for minor body work (long story...but a friend "helped" me move my rig and was supposed to use his car hauler and brought a 6' wide trailer instead) from a major rub mark in the rear and a complete re-paint on a Champion Legend and re-pin stripe (which was $200 bucks alone). Materials were about $400 bucks....so depending on how much body work I'd say.....you'll get what you pay for. $6-800 would be fair IMHO....less than that you are possibly in for more expensive fix down the road.
I just paid $1,000K in TN for minor body work (long story...but a friend "helped" me move my rig and was supposed to use his car hauler and brought a 6' wide trailer instead) from a major rub mark in the rear and a complete re-paint on a Champion Legend and re-pin stripe (which was $200 bucks alone). Materials were about $400 bucks....so depending on how much body work I'd say.....you'll get what you pay for. $6-800 would be fair IMHO....less than that you are possibly in for more expensive fix down the road.
Quote from senorcosta on December 30, 2010, 7:51 pmWell, all I can tell you is this. He was recommended by a friend who sends him ALOT of work. My friend came with me when we brought it over. Maybe he's doing us a favor?
Let's see what happens. It'll be ready in a couple of weeks. I'll post some pics when its done.
Well, all I can tell you is this. He was recommended by a friend who sends him ALOT of work. My friend came with me when we brought it over. Maybe he's doing us a favor?
Let's see what happens. It'll be ready in a couple of weeks. I'll post some pics when its done.
Quote from Guest on April 9, 2011, 5:20 amFinal product is always a true matter of the prep. It is the difference between a paint job that looks good from several feet away and one that looks great up close and from any distance. The prep is not cheap to do, as it is labor intensive. If you do it all yourself, you can save a buck or two with a single-stage paint job and skip the clear coats and such. On a Ural, you are likely to be hitting the off-roads on most models, so your new paint is going to have character marks on it pretty soon. The powder coat and Durabac methods have advantages and disadvantages. Unfortunately, the cost of paints, hardners, reducers, breathng equipment and different paint supplies are all on the rise, as well as having the actual facilities to do a really good job. $500 bucks may sound high to someone who wants to skimp on money or save a buck, but it is a real bargain for a good quality paint job. You do your own prep and labor and it will quickly make a believer out of you. Painting is almost always cheaper and easier to farm out these days. It may be neat to do it yourself, and provide one with some self-satisfaction in doing so, but that all comes with a price. Now days, that price is more than most want to pay. If you can get a really good paint job for $500 bucks, my opinion is that you made yourself a great bargain and go for it. Good luck on it.
I used to own my own equipment and do my own vintage cars in my back yard shop. No way I'd be able to keep doing that today. No way I'd offer to paint a hack, gas tank, bike fenders and sidecar fenders for that price. Get into painting a frame and such, and it is even worse on cost. Add in pin stripes and two tone colors, and price would certainly go up.
Final product is always a true matter of the prep. It is the difference between a paint job that looks good from several feet away and one that looks great up close and from any distance. The prep is not cheap to do, as it is labor intensive. If you do it all yourself, you can save a buck or two with a single-stage paint job and skip the clear coats and such. On a Ural, you are likely to be hitting the off-roads on most models, so your new paint is going to have character marks on it pretty soon. The powder coat and Durabac methods have advantages and disadvantages. Unfortunately, the cost of paints, hardners, reducers, breathng equipment and different paint supplies are all on the rise, as well as having the actual facilities to do a really good job. $500 bucks may sound high to someone who wants to skimp on money or save a buck, but it is a real bargain for a good quality paint job. You do your own prep and labor and it will quickly make a believer out of you. Painting is almost always cheaper and easier to farm out these days. It may be neat to do it yourself, and provide one with some self-satisfaction in doing so, but that all comes with a price. Now days, that price is more than most want to pay. If you can get a really good paint job for $500 bucks, my opinion is that you made yourself a great bargain and go for it. Good luck on it.
I used to own my own equipment and do my own vintage cars in my back yard shop. No way I'd be able to keep doing that today. No way I'd offer to paint a hack, gas tank, bike fenders and sidecar fenders for that price. Get into painting a frame and such, and it is even worse on cost. Add in pin stripes and two tone colors, and price would certainly go up.
Quote from gnm109 on April 9, 2011, 11:54 amPat Huey - 4/9/2011 2:20 AM
Final product is always a true matter of the prep. It is the difference between a paint job that looks good from several feet away and one that looks great up close and from any distance. The prep is not cheap to do, as it is labor intensive. If you do it all yourself, you can save a buck or two with a single-stage paint job and skip the clear coats and such. On a Ural, you are likely to be hitting the off-roads on most models, so your new paint is going to have character marks on it pretty soon. The powder coat and Durabac methods have advantages and disadvantages. Unfortunately, the cost of paints, hardners, reducers, breathng equipment and different paint supplies are all on the rise, as well as having the actual facilities to do a really good job. $500 bucks may sound high to someone who wants to skimp on money or save a buck, but it is a real bargain for a good quality paint job. You do your own prep and labor and it will quickly make a believer out of you. Painting is almost always cheaper and easier to farm out these days. It may be neat to do it yourself, and provide one with some self-satisfaction in doing so, but that all comes with a price. Now days, that price is more than most want to pay. If you can get a really good paint job for $500 bucks, my opinion is that you made yourself a great bargain and go for it. Good luck on it.
I used to own my own equipment and do my own vintage cars in my back yard shop. No way I'd be able to keep doing that today. No way I'd offer to paint a hack, gas tank, bike fenders and sidecar fenders for that price. Get into painting a frame and such, and it is even worse on cost. Add in pin stripes and two tone colors, and price would certainly go up.
This is an old thread but I agree with everything you say. I once changed the color on a 1987 HD TLE from burgundy to metallic blue and it was quite a job. I did OK finally but the cost, even then some 15 years ago, was incredible. I can't even imagine what it would cost now with two and three-part primers, paints and clear coats.
I got a quote on a paint job from a body shop once for the tub disassembled in two parts, upper and lower and one fender. They wanted $1,700. LOL.
I have two excellent spray guns that I haven't used in years. Costs too much.
Pat Huey - 4/9/2011 2:20 AM
Final product is always a true matter of the prep. It is the difference between a paint job that looks good from several feet away and one that looks great up close and from any distance. The prep is not cheap to do, as it is labor intensive. If you do it all yourself, you can save a buck or two with a single-stage paint job and skip the clear coats and such. On a Ural, you are likely to be hitting the off-roads on most models, so your new paint is going to have character marks on it pretty soon. The powder coat and Durabac methods have advantages and disadvantages. Unfortunately, the cost of paints, hardners, reducers, breathng equipment and different paint supplies are all on the rise, as well as having the actual facilities to do a really good job. $500 bucks may sound high to someone who wants to skimp on money or save a buck, but it is a real bargain for a good quality paint job. You do your own prep and labor and it will quickly make a believer out of you. Painting is almost always cheaper and easier to farm out these days. It may be neat to do it yourself, and provide one with some self-satisfaction in doing so, but that all comes with a price. Now days, that price is more than most want to pay. If you can get a really good paint job for $500 bucks, my opinion is that you made yourself a great bargain and go for it. Good luck on it.
I used to own my own equipment and do my own vintage cars in my back yard shop. No way I'd be able to keep doing that today. No way I'd offer to paint a hack, gas tank, bike fenders and sidecar fenders for that price. Get into painting a frame and such, and it is even worse on cost. Add in pin stripes and two tone colors, and price would certainly go up.
This is an old thread but I agree with everything you say. I once changed the color on a 1987 HD TLE from burgundy to metallic blue and it was quite a job. I did OK finally but the cost, even then some 15 years ago, was incredible. I can't even imagine what it would cost now with two and three-part primers, paints and clear coats.
I got a quote on a paint job from a body shop once for the tub disassembled in two parts, upper and lower and one fender. They wanted $1,700. LOL.
I have two excellent spray guns that I haven't used in years. Costs too much.
Quote from jrapose on April 16, 2011, 8:02 pmI kinda agree, your painter is giving you a pretty fair deal for $500..... considering the sandpaper, primer, sealer, paint and polishing materials....even a small project runs several hundred in parts.....not much for labor...but I agree....it's fun for them to paint anything but cars....I bet a painter gets sick of painting cars all the time.....bikes are more fun..
Joel Rapose
I kinda agree, your painter is giving you a pretty fair deal for $500..... considering the sandpaper, primer, sealer, paint and polishing materials....even a small project runs several hundred in parts.....not much for labor...but I agree....it's fun for them to paint anything but cars....I bet a painter gets sick of painting cars all the time.....bikes are more fun..
Joel Rapose