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Flex Ride Torsion Axle
Quote from DeeW on February 17, 2018, 10:51 pmI am building a side car and was going to use a Flex Ride adjustable torsion axle. The axle is rated for 550 Lb. California Side Car used to use an early version of the torsion axle. A recommended upgrade for this car includes the Flex Ride torsion axle. Does anybody have any info on using the Flex Ride. Torsion axle. The part number is FR-550-S.
I am building a side car and was going to use a Flex Ride adjustable torsion axle. The axle is rated for 550 Lb. California Side Car used to use an early version of the torsion axle. A recommended upgrade for this car includes the Flex Ride torsion axle. Does anybody have any info on using the Flex Ride. Torsion axle. The part number is FR-550-S.
Quote from Jeff_Online on February 19, 2018, 7:48 amI have torsion axles on my bike trailer. Love them, independent suspension is the only way to go there. I don't see much difference in torsion or standard swing arm IMO on a hack. The adjustment might be a little different, if present at all, and the mounts are of course completely different. I did a little bit of research on this and found out there really was a lot of design differences. It requires a nice, beefy part of the frame to have torsion against. This sort of reinforcement wasn't easy to retrofit, so I stayed with a modified standard setup. It occurs to me you could make sure your frame was compatible with both kinds of suspension if you changed your mind later. Personally, I think you'd be more than happy with the torsion setup, but it's a lot easier to switch if you think about it before you lay any steel down. 🙂
I have torsion axles on my bike trailer. Love them, independent suspension is the only way to go there. I don't see much difference in torsion or standard swing arm IMO on a hack. The adjustment might be a little different, if present at all, and the mounts are of course completely different. I did a little bit of research on this and found out there really was a lot of design differences. It requires a nice, beefy part of the frame to have torsion against. This sort of reinforcement wasn't easy to retrofit, so I stayed with a modified standard setup. It occurs to me you could make sure your frame was compatible with both kinds of suspension if you changed your mind later. Personally, I think you'd be more than happy with the torsion setup, but it's a lot easier to switch if you think about it before you lay any steel down. 🙂
Quote from jaydmc on February 19, 2018, 10:47 amWhen we use these type of suspension units (only on commercial cargo sidecars, no passenger sidecars) we use units from UCF America that have the swing arm held on with splines, this way when you buy a pair you have enough for two sidecars as you can flip the swing arm over. Also we can cut the swing arm changing its length which of course also changes its spring rates and we can weld on mounts for a disk brake with out having to worry about the heat of welding damaging the rubber portions of the unit.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
866-638-1793
www.dmcisdecars.com
When we use these type of suspension units (only on commercial cargo sidecars, no passenger sidecars) we use units from UCF America that have the swing arm held on with splines, this way when you buy a pair you have enough for two sidecars as you can flip the swing arm over. Also we can cut the swing arm changing its length which of course also changes its spring rates and we can weld on mounts for a disk brake with out having to worry about the heat of welding damaging the rubber portions of the unit.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
866-638-1793
http://www.dmcisdecars.com
Quote from jaydmc on February 19, 2018, 11:16 amCargo usually does not complain about poor ride quality. You get a much better ride with a longer swing arm and a proper spring shock set up.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
866-638-1793
Cargo usually does not complain about poor ride quality. You get a much better ride with a longer swing arm and a proper spring shock set up.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
866-638-1793
Quote from DeeW on February 19, 2018, 11:28 amGood to know. That makes all the difference. I guess that makes up my mind as far as a suspension system for my project. It is a bit confusing trying to source all the parts required for the suspension system. I have no problem fabbing the body and frame, just need to source the 16” spoke wheel, swing arm, shock/spring, arm assembly and anything else to complete the wheel/suspension system.
Good to know. That makes all the difference. I guess that makes up my mind as far as a suspension system for my project. It is a bit confusing trying to source all the parts required for the suspension system. I have no problem fabbing the body and frame, just need to source the 16” spoke wheel, swing arm, shock/spring, arm assembly and anything else to complete the wheel/suspension system.
Quote from Jeff_Online on February 21, 2018, 9:47 amI'm attempting Lonnie Cook's suspension upgrade. It occurs to me you might want to take a peek at that. Basically, you get a spindle, hub, tire, and wheel from a trailer supply place. I went with Tractor Supply, they're all over here and everything is standard. I'm thinking about $150 for the whole thing. I found a shock to fit for around $25 (although I might do a different one). All you need is the swingarm, which is the part I'm having made, and the tower to mount it to (which is welded to the frame & I don't plan on modifying). Honestly, if I were designing from scratch instead of modifying based on someone else's basic plans, I'd probably pay someone like Jay to see if my idea was any good. Note that my car needs to be heavier, so any reinforcement or anything that adds weight is a good thing for me. That is pretty much the one thing on a sidecar that makes all the difference, and you can't change once you decide. (Mostly. I mean you can rebuild everything like I'm doing, I guess.)
I'm attempting Lonnie Cook's suspension upgrade. It occurs to me you might want to take a peek at that. Basically, you get a spindle, hub, tire, and wheel from a trailer supply place. I went with Tractor Supply, they're all over here and everything is standard. I'm thinking about $150 for the whole thing. I found a shock to fit for around $25 (although I might do a different one). All you need is the swingarm, which is the part I'm having made, and the tower to mount it to (which is welded to the frame & I don't plan on modifying). Honestly, if I were designing from scratch instead of modifying based on someone else's basic plans, I'd probably pay someone like Jay to see if my idea was any good. Note that my car needs to be heavier, so any reinforcement or anything that adds weight is a good thing for me. That is pretty much the one thing on a sidecar that makes all the difference, and you can't change once you decide. (Mostly. I mean you can rebuild everything like I'm doing, I guess.)
Quote from jaydmc on February 22, 2018, 1:37 pmOne thing to keep in mind with trailer hubs, while it can be done, they are not easy to add a brake to. I know, brakes just slow you down 🙂 but some times that can be a good thing.
We do make a hub that fits where a trailer hub would that has a brake rotor and we have a kit for installing the caliper.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
866-638-1793
www.dmcsidecars.com
One thing to keep in mind with trailer hubs, while it can be done, they are not easy to add a brake to. I know, brakes just slow you down 🙂 but some times that can be a good thing.
We do make a hub that fits where a trailer hub would that has a brake rotor and we have a kit for installing the caliper.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
866-638-1793
http://www.dmcsidecars.com
Quote from rudyr on February 23, 2018, 9:20 amI’ve been running a adjustable flex axel about a year. And really enjoy it on a Cozy side with reinforced frame on a Triumph Bonneville. I used the adj.axel because 550 lb. was light on I could find. It has a 1”by 2” arm between axel and the rubber,so I pulled it off the splined rubbers added 2.5” more length and offset so it would mis the wheel. NowI think it’s 250lb. Torsion axel. Make sure keep wheel vertical wire frame.Rudyr
I’ve been running a adjustable flex axel about a year. And really enjoy it on a Cozy side with reinforced frame on a Triumph Bonneville. I used the adj.axel because 550 lb. was light on I could find. It has a 1”by 2” arm between axel and the rubber,so I pulled it off the splined rubbers added 2.5” more length and offset so it would mis the wheel. NowI think it’s 250lb. Torsion axel. Make sure keep wheel vertical wire frame.Rudyr