USCA Sidecar Forum

For some extra information about navigating the forum you can go to Forum Tips


Please or Register to create posts and topics.

Building a Harley softail rig

Be VERY careful!

 I highly suggest you skip the starting fluid thing. yes we did it on the farm for years . But that don't make it a good idea.


It does not go bang anymore so that does not work. I still have a good tire on the back so I do not have much of a rush anyhow. When I run into a stonewall I simply go on with something else till I get an inspiration and return to the problem. I do appreciate the concerns tho     Chuck


I understand that you already have the tire but it seems that tires with softer sidewalls work better.  Remember, you are putting a tire that's too small by design on a wheel that was designed for a bigger tire.  Also, many folks report that they have much better luck when they let the tire sit in the sun so it warms up...maybe you'll have to wait until August ;^)

BTW, I understand that 16" tires are the most difficult to mount and it gets easier when you go bigger. Of course I have no direct wheels wearing auto tires on my rig.


Al Olme Minneapolis, Minnesota

  The hardest one I have done is the 15 inch. For some reason they are just a pain to get to pop in right. My 195/60R16 have never been a problem.

    Some may disagree but it seems the more volume of air you get right from the start, the better it goes. Pull value stem and have a good size tank and the largest diameter hose you can get.

Amen on all the good advice. When you spread your problems out they really get to be less.

I am going to try with 50 cal lanolin case lube on the rim surfaces . That stuff is so slick I have never got a case stuck in a die when I use it and most case lubes do not even come close when you size the big 50 Yup I am a 1000 yd shooter,  I actually built a 50 mag rifle wildcat from the ground up in my  shop. I have some questions on another subject. I have a steering damper and it does make the steering very heavy. especially at parking lot speeds etc. I see that if you have tight head bearings it should not headshake. Now I have my steering head bearings about 20 deg from drag on the adjusting nut. I have a 28deg apparent rake using a Wideglide airover front end and a modified upper tree. Does anybody run a similar rake and how much shake do you get and is it mph specific or  is it like one of our esteemed American side car custom builders say that a tight front spindle bearing set up does not head shake. I would love to take that damper off and not have to wrastle the steering . I  place great value on actual doing and very little on opinion  Chuck 

PS had a Cadillac and folks called it the Chuckalac Being from S Africa folks called me the Spearchucker I kinda prefer Chuckalac as a handle I tried to correct my profile but no luck

My handle is Chuckalac and I have tried to modify my  thingy but have had no luck I had a Cadillac at one time and folks called it the Chuckalac I sort of adopted it ar




I took the rig for a little run without the damper and to tell the truth I really do not think the steering is any lighter when  making a sharp right angle turn and I did detect a slight headshake at lower speeds like in 1st gear is that normal with tight head bearings. I do not have any binding with the front wheel jacked off the ground and it has a very slight hesitation to falling off, like it has a little head bearing preload on the races. I am running a stock Harley 16" front mag wheel and tire. The bottom of the bike frame is pretty much parallel to the ground and I had to advance the hole in the top tree right at 1/8"  so the tube holes would line up on the top of the tubes and I have an eccentric washer welded in to prevent any movement at the top. I am listening??????? I will work very hard to get the best function I can, but do not want to spin my wheels trying for the impossible.  Then I may just try putting in some al. handle bar extenders Or am I trying to go too fast making those turns???   Chuck

On the car tire I got smart. I lubed the inside flanges of the rim with Lanolin and then took it to a shop that mounts truck tires and they lubed it with their stuff too and when they applied the air it just popped right on. Now was it the lanolin the shop lube or the big airline? But now I know how to do it next time. I can mount the tire myself and prep it then just take it to a truck tire place   Chuck

 You see They have a lot more volume of air at once than we do at home. How do you plan to balance it. Ride on works very well.

I have 3 oz of balance beads in very thin plastic bags in there.      Please    Can anybody tell me as a percentage of force how much less should the rolling force be as compared to stationary when you turn the handlebars, "especially sharp rolling turns"  Right now I am experiencing a much higher turning force requirement than with any trike that I have rode. I have built both rear and mid engine VW trikes and apart from some headshake have not had any steering problems like I am experiencing now with a side car. The rig is pretty neutral when I go straight and I am not aware of any real tendency to go left  or right. It could be I am being a little overcritical but I think not based on my trike experience and I do not believe  adjusted Trees are responsible for my perceived problem. I definitely do not want to run the twisties .  Had enough of that in my youth         Chuck