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Adjusting mechanical sidecar brakes

Hi guys. Been so long since I've been  here that my password no longer worked. I also see the site has an entirely new look.

Here's my question. I have a 2000 Ural Tourist that I bought back in 2015. I've been riding solo bikes for over 40 years, am a pretty seasoned wrench and spent a little time on the track with Lightweight Supersport roadracer. I have about 5000 miles under my belt since rebuilding the engine. So, I'm still learning, but not quite a newbie anymore.

Rotated the rear and hack wheels the other day which necessitated adjusting the drum brakes on both. I have it set up so I can lock up both rear and hack wheels with the rear brake pedal. With the front drum and the rear and hack locked up the rig stops dead straight. This is all with the hack empty. When I took it for a ride after that, I tapped the rear brake as I approached an intersection and the rig pulled a little to the right. It was something it never had done before. It got my attention, but was not something I could not quickly correct with steering. My first thought was a need to back off the hack brake a half turn or so. But on that same ride, with no traffic around me, I got hard on all three brakes without skidding the tires and she slowed quickly and went dead straight.

Did some searches here and see that others report right pull with juice brakes. My thought is for max braking force with all three, there will be some pull to the right with an empty hack and just the rear brakes. It's the price you have to pay to achieve max braking.  Am I right in this assumption?

Discussion on the Soviet Steeds site indicates that with a loaded hack, the pull should be much less or possibly non-existent. My assumption is this is due to added inertia on the right side with the loaded hack.

Looking for some seasoned experience comments on this.



Hello Rob,

these days I am wrenching on my Ural, and will take the photos of my modified drum brake cams for to give you an idea how to increase the shoe elevation at the same pedal travel. On Sovietsteeds you recieved already a bunch of good comments. Myself I use to ride in mountain range and have had a very bad experience with my Jawa rig on its first day back on 13th dezember 2004. The s/c brake cable was wrong routed and used to brake by itsself in hard left handers... a blocking sidecar wheel at the edge of a cliff is a adrenalin pusher of its own kind.

Therefore I got from Gobium butterfly brake set screws.... on the start of a trip a few test brakeings and adjust the brake to actual load. As general brake adjustment indicator I use the parking brake as check tool. When I am able to roll the rig with set parkbrake pushing or on a steep slope, it is time to adjust brakes again. (I never changed the original park brake setting for to use it as reference.)

Other Test I use to do is brake on gravel and check which back side brake blocked first. I tend to have both scrape marks as close as possible.

Best regards.


(2013 Patrol)