Quote from Guest on December 20, 2007, 12:26 pm

you may get some other opinions, but here's my take on it:

Both the crown of the road and the drag of the sidecar make lean out necessary. if you lean a wheel over, it will tend to go the direction of the lean. The drag from the sidecar will pull the rig towards the right. Leaning the bike left will help counteract this. Because the crown of the road leans the rig right, a road with a high crown will exagerate the tendency to pull to the right. More leanout is required to get neutral steering.

Typically you have four mounting points: two lower mounts and two upper struts. The struts are adjustable and are used to set the lean out.

When your suspension is compressed lean out will change. It is best to set your leanout with the suspension compressed under normal load ie: with the weight of the driver and the passenger or ballast (if carried) aboard.

What I usually do is put weight in the sidecar, sit on the bike and use a tiedown from the seat rail to the swingarm so the suspension will remain compressed when I get off. I adjust the threaded struts to acheive the leanout I want

The object is to achieve nuetral steering for the road and speeds you most often travel. This is very subjective and the amount of pull will vary with the width of the rig, weight, and speed as well as the crown of the road. Because of this, no one can tell what is the correct amount of lean out to use. You need to find the sweet spot which works for you. At speeds above or below this the rig will still pull as it will if the loads carried are changed or the road crown changes.

Methods of measuring leanout also vary. Some people use a carpenters level against the rear wheel, others a bubble or inclinometer from a RV or boat shop. I find it easiest to put the front wheel straight ahead and measure from the tips of the handlebars to the ground. I typically start with the inside handlebar about an inch higher than the outside(left)handlebar and adjust as necesary after a test ride.

You need to keep your sidecar chassis level with the sidecar wheel straight up-tipping the sidecar wheel has the same effect-it will pull the direction it is leaned.

You need to get your toe in the ball park before you do this, too. Excessive toe in or toe out will cause the rig to pull, increase tire wear and impair fuel economy. I usually start with about 1/2" of toe in or less.If I get some wobble I may try a little more toe in, but I like as close to zero as I can get. Again, opinions will vary. Check your toe in after adjusting your leanout-changing one will often affect the other.

I don't think the method you use to measure your leanout or toe in is as important as it is you do it consistently each time you check. You need to be able to reproduce your numbers accurately to make sensible adjustments.

Ultimately the important thing is how you feel it handles and how your tires wear. No one elses numbers matter. There are too many variables between rigs, roads and riders. You just need to fuss with it until you are happy with how it works.

Quote from lfann on December 20, 2007, 12:36 pm

Thanks Vernon.
I owned a 1974 sportster and never set lean out when I set the
rig up. I must have just lucked out, because the rig handled great.
Thanks again for the info.
Larry

Quote from Guest on December 20, 2007, 11:17 pm

Use this manual http://www.sidecar.com/Files/SC%20Manual.pdf as a reference. Section 2 should provide some answers to your questions.

Quote from lfann on December 21, 2007, 8:25 am

Thanks Wayne.

Quote from Guest on December 21, 2007, 10:45 am

Just a few thoughts --I have a Texas Sidecar mounted to a 2005 1200C and really am pleased with its handling. Toe in is 3/4 inch and leanout with me on the bike and 60 lbs of ballast is right at 1 degree. After your car is mounted it is easy to adjust the lean out by adjusting the bars going to the upper mounts. Adusting lean out is easy, Toe in is HARD!(more envolved anyway). It is fairly light to steer and completely neutral at 65-70 mph. Mileage is 35 mpg and tire wear is excellent with the stock Dunlops. The biggest thing to watch out for is your ground clearance when using a subframe. I have to be REALLY careful with speed bumps etc. Also there is not much room between the belt guard and upper rear mount. I bottomed out a couple of times with 1 inch longer than stock shocks (Progressive 412s with the heavy springs) and the belt guard has a nice matching dent. LOL
Other than these issues it is a great match. I drive my rig to work every day rain or shine and love it! Good Luck!
Henry

Quote from lfann on December 21, 2007, 11:54 am

Thanks Henry.
I suspected clearance would be an issue, as I have scraped a couple
of speed bumps while riding solo. With the added subframe for the
sidecar mount, I imagine it will get worse before getting better.
Thanks again for the input as it is reassuring to hear from someone
with a similar machine and sidecar.
With any luck, I'll have mine on the road in a couple of weeks.
Larry

Quote from SwampFox on December 21, 2007, 8:33 pm

Hi Henry: I've about decided on adding Texas Sidecar to our 2002 883R rigid mount Sportster, which doesn't require a subfrane and stands a lttle taller than the L models . Which model car do you have? Any suggestions or observations you might offer a prospect?

Thanks a lot